Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there, I was reading the other thread about lightweight flywheels and got to thinking.

I have a R32 GTST with RB20 + R33 turbo. I'm not super happy with the off boost, in-gear response. I do the vast majority of my driving in the "idle to 2500rpm" zone (zero boost mostly), i.e., changing gears at less than 2500rpm. In this area the car feels quite slow and doughy (obviously) which I guess is also not helped by the R33 turbo.

Would it be worthwhile buying a lightweight flywheel? I already have a PBR/Clutch Industries H/D clutch under my bed ready to go in.

Who sells them?????

Thanks for your help.

Fixxxer :pwned:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114392-r32-gtst-off-boost-driveability/
Share on other sites

might as well go for carbon fibre drive shaft while your at it.

I'm sure it will help but is it worth the money?

rb20's like to drive around at about 3000rpm.. driving in traffic at 60km in third gear plonks you right on about 3000rpm.

need to over take, squeeze right toes and it will get right in it's chunky zone.. if the rb20 has one that is.

Edited by GTST

My car sounds like all hell is breaking loose at 3000rpm and above so its not an option really (and why I change early). I don't want to quieten down the exhaust and lose exhaust flow either.

If I want to overtake then its just a gear change away anyways. But for normal everyday driving I wonder if its worth spending $$$ on one (I don't even know who sell them and how much it costs anyways)

Fixxxer

I haven't had any personal experience with lightened flywheels but by all accounts on the many other treads on this subject it seems to have made a sizable difference to the cars acceleration with the draw backs of having to rev the motor more on take off and rev drop occuring much quicker between gear shifts.

But the general concensous was a great mod once you'd altered your driving style to suite!

Do a search remembering to change the "last 30 days setting" and you'll find several threads

Hope that helps :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...