Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guy,

My car is sitting the garage collecting dust, it's currently has no rego and I know need to get a blue slip done.

I know that for me to do a blue slip it's more more complicated because of the complicances involved which has to meet the safey and requirments. Much more of a headache esp if you have modifications on the car.

Well my car is lightly modded

- Body kit

- FMIC

- 18" rims

- Pod filter

- BOV

- Lowered suspension

- Exhaust turbo back

I've asked around some mechanics and some will pass me for the FMIC and some will not is this the case?

I know that I will have to replace my BOV and POD a/f with stock, what about my exhaust?

Does anyone know what esle I could do perhaps some helpful tips, or where I could go to get a blue slip *winkwink*

Any help or suggestion would help

I'm in sydney.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114672-need-a-blue-slip/
Share on other sites

dr gas @ rydalmere... i got my blue slip done there wen i got defected + epa.. i jus changed bov & pod also.. with my exhaust i jus chucked a silencer on.. took liek 10min, paid $30-40 i think and i was on my way :( and yeah i had everything u had too xcept the rims i had 17's but they were really wide with bad tread.

its not a dodgy mechanic where u have to pay X amount to get the blue slip, jus a mechanic that understands hahahaa..

Edited by hanyou
dr gas @ rydalmere... i got my blue slip done there wen i got defected + epa.. i jus changed bov & pod also.. with my exhaust i jus chucked a silencer on.. took liek 10min, paid $30-40 i think and i was on my way :bunny: and yeah i had everything u had too xcept the rims i had 17's but they were really wide with bad tread.

its not a dodgy mechanic where u have to pay X amount to get the blue slip, jus a mechanic that understands hahahaa..

You absolutly right on that mate just a mechanic that understands, ive booked my car in for tuesday at kirawee ill let u know how i go

blue slip prices vary..

depending on what is needed to be a checked, for example a defect is piss easy and shouldnt cost more than $30 if legit

ahhh i see!

my bad. i've only ever needed one kind.

  • 2 years later...

hey guys just curious

i lost my rego because i couldn't clear my defects

and had to go DECC as well and consequence of not passing the sound test, and i went ther and failed

but i was supposed to go back to get it passed again...but i haven't had any letters from them and my rego is already cancelled

so i'm assuming they not really chasing me up on it

but do u know now if i still need to clear defects before i get blue slip? or will just getting a blue slip will be sufficient?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...