Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 240
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It so is

Look, a 34 gtr will cost you $60k

Keeping your car will mean the following expenses:

GTR 34 seats $2000

GTR wheels $2500

GTR motor $7000

AWD system $1500

GTR body kit $4000

GTR front and rear diffusers $1500

GTR Rear wing $500

GTR MFD $1000

GTR steering wheel $250

GTR trim $1000

GTR badges $150

GTR Xenons $4000

The fact that you will have a 3 year newer car = $10k

So there you go. Theres your 55-60k worth :)

It so is

Look, a 34 gtr will cost you $60k

Keeping your car will mean the following expenses:

GTR 34 seats $2000

GTR wheels $2500

GTR motor $7000

AWD system $1500

GTR body kit $4000

GTR front and rear diffusers $1500

GTR Rear wing $500

GTR MFD $1000

GTR steering wheel $250

GTR trim $1000

GTR badges $150

GTR Xenons $4000

The fact that you will have a 3 year newer car = $10k

So there you go. Theres your 55-60k worth :)

Where do you get a rear c/f defuser for a 34 GTR for anywhere near $1500?

Go the RB 30 dett mona

It so is

Look, a 34 gtr will cost you $60k

Keeping your car will mean the following expenses:

GTR 34 seats $2000

GTR wheels $2500

GTR motor $7000

AWD system $1500

GTR body kit $4000

GTR front and rear diffusers $1500

GTR Rear wing $500

GTR MFD $1000

GTR steering wheel $250

GTR trim $1000

GTR badges $150

GTR Xenons $4000

The fact that you will have a 3 year newer car = $10k

So there you go. Theres your 55-60k worth :D

Dont prove me wrong guys. I Wont hear a word of it :dry:

I need a smiley to express the fact that I am SO tempted to say something but am biting my tongue because I cbf arguing with some people. :)

Edit - that quote from R32R at the top of the page is wrong, very very wrong. I think he's got things crossed up.

Sif.

Bring it, Bish.

I stand by what I said.

3L bottom ends help ONLY with low end torque/tractability (good for general street use, yes)

BUT

The shorter stroke RB26 based engines are ALWAYS a better idea as out-and-out race engines, for all the reasons I mentioned and more.

Need I remind you that the 3 fastest drag GT-Rs on the planet use 2.8L or smaller engines, with the HKS 33 using their own 2.8L kit (crank has 4mm more stroke than normal [77.7mm])

But I'm sure in your mind the 3/3.1L jobbies are better, right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...