Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 240
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It so is

Look, a 34 gtr will cost you $60k

Keeping your car will mean the following expenses:

GTR 34 seats $2000

GTR wheels $2500

GTR motor $7000

AWD system $1500

GTR body kit $4000

GTR front and rear diffusers $1500

GTR Rear wing $500

GTR MFD $1000

GTR steering wheel $250

GTR trim $1000

GTR badges $150

GTR Xenons $4000

The fact that you will have a 3 year newer car = $10k

So there you go. Theres your 55-60k worth :)

It so is

Look, a 34 gtr will cost you $60k

Keeping your car will mean the following expenses:

GTR 34 seats $2000

GTR wheels $2500

GTR motor $7000

AWD system $1500

GTR body kit $4000

GTR front and rear diffusers $1500

GTR Rear wing $500

GTR MFD $1000

GTR steering wheel $250

GTR trim $1000

GTR badges $150

GTR Xenons $4000

The fact that you will have a 3 year newer car = $10k

So there you go. Theres your 55-60k worth :)

Where do you get a rear c/f defuser for a 34 GTR for anywhere near $1500?

Go the RB 30 dett mona

It so is

Look, a 34 gtr will cost you $60k

Keeping your car will mean the following expenses:

GTR 34 seats $2000

GTR wheels $2500

GTR motor $7000

AWD system $1500

GTR body kit $4000

GTR front and rear diffusers $1500

GTR Rear wing $500

GTR MFD $1000

GTR steering wheel $250

GTR trim $1000

GTR badges $150

GTR Xenons $4000

The fact that you will have a 3 year newer car = $10k

So there you go. Theres your 55-60k worth :D

Dont prove me wrong guys. I Wont hear a word of it :dry:

I need a smiley to express the fact that I am SO tempted to say something but am biting my tongue because I cbf arguing with some people. :)

Edit - that quote from R32R at the top of the page is wrong, very very wrong. I think he's got things crossed up.

Sif.

Bring it, Bish.

I stand by what I said.

3L bottom ends help ONLY with low end torque/tractability (good for general street use, yes)

BUT

The shorter stroke RB26 based engines are ALWAYS a better idea as out-and-out race engines, for all the reasons I mentioned and more.

Need I remind you that the 3 fastest drag GT-Rs on the planet use 2.8L or smaller engines, with the HKS 33 using their own 2.8L kit (crank has 4mm more stroke than normal [77.7mm])

But I'm sure in your mind the 3/3.1L jobbies are better, right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • bumping this post as im still having dramas, my fuel pick up is sitting on the bottom of the tank, my pump gets a constant 13 volts through a relay, my fuel pressure holds consistently without fluttering or dropping, yet as soon as im near half a tank of fuel my car starts fuel starving and leaning out, it cant be due to g force as it never pulls hard enough before it starts breaking up, any help would be much appreciated 
    • Just a thought, was that car and auto at any point of its life? If so, maybe whoever bridged the inhibitor switch/circuit did a not so good job.
    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
×
×
  • Create New...