Jump to content
SAU Community

Cheap O2 Sensor


Recommended Posts

There's been lots of people talking about getting really bad fuel econemy me being one of them for me I knew it had to be my O2 sensor coz it was stuffed all the wires were melted. I'm not saying this is the same problem that everyone with bad fuel ecomemy has but i'll get to the point when i went to nissan they wanted $230 for an O2 sensor (RB20det) so I went looking and found this guy on ebay enginesensorsandsystems they were only $50 (universal) I was a bit worried about putting a universal one in my car but the price was right so i gave it a go, now the car runs perfect no ruff idle better fuel ecomony.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

02 sensor wont affect idle. it is probably better to go for a genuine one vs a aftermarket no brander one as the voltage scale may be slightly out so it could affect say 5% fuel economy. a bog stock OEM one for the rb20 from repco should be no more than $90 for the correct one with the right plug.

R33 users can use the EL falcon one, althought there has been some specualation over it. I think the genuine one is only an extra $30 or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my idle is great, nice even rumble, like a even purrr @ .9k rpm, just get 200k's to a tank no matter what I do, whether i weld the throttle open or drive like miss daizy.

wiped the bottom section of the exhuast tip and see shiney chrome, drive it for about 20 mins, pop quater of a tank and she's black. visibly black smoke @ top end 6-7k rpms, but thought this normal considering its a nissan especially a line, getting rich up top always beter an leaning out anyway so when i bought it was fine, just hadnt noticed the monster thirst till i owned the damed thing....

have been wondering if its out of the norm but aparently the car is supposed to pull 400k's to a tank when flogging it. 97 S2 so hell dunno. on bp ultimate, first owner in aus, maybe its the ecu defualting to safe map? i've runn injector cleaner through it, gona reset the ecu in the hopes it will get better, just need to find a guy who can test it in my local area for a decent price.

I dont want cheap work but i cant afford big $$$ either at the mo

anyone around the ec area with a diagnostic machine that wont charge me a fortune to hook it up and give it a test?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
×
×
  • Create New...