Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

As some you know, i've recently bought a new R33 '96' GTS-T and it's been awesome up until saturday. I've been driving it non stop for a week and a bit and it's been running awesome.

On saturday i went to the carwash (never again....did a crap job..can clean it beta by hand!) and turned the car off and waited in the bay as you do. Once i was ready to go i proceeded to turn the car on but it wouldnt start. At first i thought it was the battery so i kept on trying and luckily it came on after a few go's...otherwise it was KC and the sunshine band's carwash for me all afternoon.

Anyhow, i kept on going to get my windows tinted (which look nice by the way) and when i was ready to leave , the car lingered a tad before it turned on fully. I got home safely and decided to turn the car off and then on again just to make sure that the problem was ok and this time it just didnt turn on at all.

Reds would come on and the car would go "grrrr grrrr grrrr" for a bit but the motor wouldnt kick in. Anyhow, i got a jump start off a neighbour and the car erupted into life like nothing happened. I was a bit worried at this stage cause i didnt know what was wrong with it. I turned it off after a couple of mins and tried again and it turned on. Done this a couple of times during the space of an hour to make sure that it was all G.

Monday morning was fine and all day as well....got home yesterday turned it off and tried it again but it wouldn't start again....looked at the battery in the back and thought it was that. The negative cable was a little loose but not a major thing. Tightened that and tried again.....no luck. Got a jump start and it worked again....

what could be wrong with it?

Some ppl reckon it's the wiring from the battery at the back to the charger at the front....any ideas peeps?

Apart from this the car is immaculate in every way.......including the motor.

dont want my dream car to turn into a nightmare... :ermm:

it will be your battery.

check when the last battery was installed, i bet it has been a couple of years and its just time for a new one.

Well thats the thing bro.....the battery is brand new!

Dodgy battery? what are the chances of that??

if the battery is brand new i'd prob look to see if anything in the car is draining it ie. alarm/stereo/lighting. you can get an auto elec to check out the load when the car is off.

other than that could be your alternator needs a reco

yeah true dat....

Gonna try a few things tonight.

Cant remember the exact name but it says "Nissan Japan" on it. Looks a little bit smaller than an average one also.

anyone know any good Auto Electricians??

thanks for ya help in advance!

Sounds like a battery issue to me :ermm: Maybe time to get a new one. See if you can borrow one from someone for a couple of days to check.

If it's not the battery, then it's the charging circuit from the alternator.

To check the charge output of your alternator. you'll need a multimeter for this..

1. Start the car up.

2. Leave it idle for a minute or so for the idle to settle in.

3. Ensure all lights, wipers, stereo, A/C is off.

4. Put the meter across the battery the voltage across the battery should be somewhere between 13 and 14 volts - anyone here know the exact range (it's usually in the manuals for the electrical system).

The guys at Croydon Park auto electrical are pretty good - they're on the left hand side of Georges River Road just past the macca's and school (heading towards ashfield/city). They do all sorts of alternator/starter recos - have a good rep around the locals.

If you're gonna get a new battery - get the biggest one (in terms of CCA) you can fit in the space. The oddessey (or similar) batteries are great and low maintenance.

Edited by exv8driver
The guys at Croydon Park auto electrical are pretty good - they're on the left hand side of Georges River Road just past the macca's and school (heading towards ashfield/city). They do all sorts of alternator/starter recos - have a good rep around the locals.

If you're gonna get a new battery - get the biggest one (in terms of CCA) you can fit in the space. The oddessey (or similar) batteries are great and low maintenance.

Awesome, thanks for that aye....yeah called up the dealership and the guy is gonna hook us up with another battery.

Hopefully that will work.

I actually went down during lunch to the car to start it and it turned on and off fine.... :thumbsup:

without offending anyone i think it's safe to say my car is definately a female....tempremental cause it wants something new...

If that doesnt work i will def visit the guys at Croydon Park Electrical.......thanks for da tips guys...

...The negative cable was a little loose but not a major thing. Tightened that and tried again.....no luck.
Clean the posts, then make sure the terminals are tight on the posts.

Won't fix it immediately, but should minimise future occurrences.

Update...

It turns out it was the battery.......apparenty it was to small?

The dealership was awesome and had no hesitation in giving me a free one. I got a heaps better heavy duty one....

It's all G now....

:)

  • 2 weeks later...

i had a problem with my car... i just replace my battery last year from autobarn and it's start playing up on me now. If i dont drive the car for 1 day, the battery goes flat.. even my alarm stop working after that so i took my car to autobarn and they used a battery tester to test it. They said the battery is in good condition and its charging properly.. finding no faults to the battery so can anyone help me on this? I've had this battery for about 6-7months now .. so i dont know =/ oh and it didnt happen just once... it happens like 3-4 times in a week.. and everytime it happens i gotta jump start it to work again.

Edited by ducki
i had a problem with my car... i just replace my battery last year from autobarn and it's start playing up on me now. If i dont drive the car for 1 day, the battery goes flat.. even my alarm stop working after that so i took my car to autobarn and they used a battery tester to test it. They said the battery is in good condition and its charging properly.. finding no faults to the battery so can anyone help me on this? I've had this battery for about 6-7months now .. so i dont know =/ oh and it didnt happen just once... it happens like 3-4 times in a week.. and everytime it happens i gotta jump start it to work again.

Have you had your Fuseboxes checked out? The one in the engine bay & the one in the back of the car next to the battery? Worth a shot...

i had a problem with my car... i just replace my battery last year from autobarn and it's start playing up on me now. If i dont drive the car for 1 day, the battery goes flat.. even my alarm stop working after that so i took my car to autobarn and they used a battery tester to test it. They said the battery is in good condition and its charging properly.. finding no faults to the battery so can anyone help me on this? I've had this battery for about 6-7months now .. so i dont know =/ oh and it didnt happen just once... it happens like 3-4 times in a week.. and everytime it happens i gotta jump start it to work again.

You battry is to small to cope, use a bigger battery.

thats the thing.. the guy from autobarn already test the battery circuit for me. Told me theres nothing wrong with the alternator and its charging correctly. But i think i will try ur guide anyway to just make sure once i get a hold of a multimeter. thanks

i have the same thing ducki battery and charging checks out fine but after 3-4 days it will be flat... lets just say i get my moneys worth for my nrma subscription :no:

ive got myself a trickel charge unit plug in from mains to stop annoying them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...