Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stagea forums IMO are some of the best around. Its because no one here is a little 14 year old trying to be cool.

We all are mature people who know to keep shut unless we actually know something about what needs to be said.

thats hit the nail on the head i reckon alex, i think u and me are the 2 youngest here by heaps aint we? good to see a forum without bitching and people dribbling shit about their mates uncles cats dogs 2nd aunties 8 second stagea with stock turbo. :)

keep it up guys :P

Thats me. 28+

Think Ghostrider and I are the oldest.

We know stuff that happened before most of you were born.

Not necessarily all good though.

Edited by 66yostagea
  • 3 years later...
Started the engine but gear shifter wouldnt move. With engine running, if i pressed the brake pedal a clicking noise could be heard in the consol at the bottom of the shifter, also turning the key on and off produced the same sound. Presumably this is a solenoid of sorts that locks/unlocks the shift lever.ie a steal stopper.

Eventually I got it the shifter lock to open by fiddling (swearing a lot) and stop starting the engine.

It is now doing it sometimes.

Any ideas, or similar problem experienced?

Ive just had another look.

With engine running the shifter button only goes half in. When i depress foot brakebutton goes allway in and operates of until you turn offf. Then process starts again.

I know this topic is dead and dusted, however i am having problems with the shift lock in my stagea sticking wether im on even ground or sloping ground it sticks badly and pushing the brake in doesnt work until the 4 or so time, i have driven other people stageas and theres have never done it like mine does...

What i want to know is the shift lock adjustable?? If so how??

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...