Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put my Series 1 RSFOUR on the Dyno last night to see if it made factory power and look at the A/F's. It made 180rwhp (had front driveshaft disconnected for RWD dyno'ing) at about 6500rpm on about 6-7psi (factory solenoid high mode). So if you figure on 240hp @flywheel, and maybe 25% losses then 180hp is about right.

But it was superduper rich throughout which I kinda see as a problem! At idle it achieved 13.5-14.5:1, so made me think the o2 sensor was working in closed loop mode, but at cruise (about 10in. Vac - 2000rpm - 4hp) it went straight to between 11.1 - 11.4 :1, stupidly rich. And on a full power run it goes off the meter at the top end, running around 10:1 before meter says 'too rich' and stops measuring.

I discovered the factory bov was leaking when we pressurised the intake path with an air compressor to check for leaks (had to disconnect and block the bov recirc line to check for bov leakage). So tried another std nissan bov they had lying around, it too leaked (both leaked from 2-6psi). Wondered if other ppl's might be? I squashed mine up in the vice to increase spring tension (butcher I know but gonna replace it), but still leaked. But it's full recirc after afm, so wouldn't be causing richness.

Sooo I'm thinking i'm on a hunt for faulty components causing the richness before I just tune it out with a piggyback. If something's wrong best I fix it instead of just tuning away.

But I'm wondering if other guys with std Stagea's have seen similiar A/f's on the dyno???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116446-super-rich-stagea/
Share on other sites

Stock NIssan ECU's = SUPERMEGAHAPPYRICH fuel mixtures, my stock R33 ran as low as 7.5:1 running stock ECU, I would assume that the stock Stagea ecu would be about the same..?

All the RB25DET stock BOV's leak, if you do some searching you'll find out all kind of stuff about the stocker BOV.

Stock NIssan ECU's = SUPERMEGAHAPPYRICH fuel mixtures, my stock R33 ran as low as 7.5:1 running stock ECU, I would assume that the stock Stagea ecu would be about the same..?

All the RB25DET stock BOV's leak, if you do some searching you'll find out all kind of stuff about the stocker BOV.

I have a feeling that the Stagea ecu is slightly different, in the outer case at least), as in you cant read error codes on the ecu on a stagea but can on an R33 (true?).

I suggest getting a SAFC and tune that beast! 12:1 all the way.

Sweet I'm pleased to hear my car probably isn't broken and slammin' rich is the norm. You'd have to ask why though.. like what was running through the ecu engineer's mind? I know altitude - temp - etc but shit.

I'm probably planning on Greddy e-manage 2, supposedly they're the way. Dyno guy is tuning on one a car soon so he'll say how it goes. Bout 1k to buy, and has usb connection, designed for tuning with laptop which i figure is handy (if ya got one).

Tangles, is the SITC a little blue screen version of the ITC? I never knew they existed!

SITC had 5 dials that you can alter the Ignition Timing on....... no screens, although they give a nice glow when the powers on.

Apexi Super-ITC or Super Ignition Timing Converter

see SK's thread, pics and all: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=80642&hl=sitc

Edited by Tangles
wicked, im about to pick one up to compliment my SAFCII. It was sold as a ITC not a SITC, so I thought there might have been a difference.

Thanks mate.

No probs!!

I gained 20kw when I added the SITC and a fuel pump (direct wired) & Z32 afm, tuned at 12psi up from 10psi. Best of luck with it.

fyi: I got a Brand New SITC off ebay for $200US LOL, never ever seen another brand new one for sale.

As I said earlier I wanted to get the S1 tuned as I thought it was running a bit rich. 15+/100kms, plus the exhaust is very sooty.

All the technical terminology in this topic puts me off a bit.

What is a simple economical method of getting a tune up?

Take it to a trusted tuner, give him lots of $$ and get your vehicle back with a couple of extra piggyback ecu's and a decent tune. Easy :/

Or buy what Tangles bought, SAFC (Super Air Flow Converter I think..?) or a SAFCII (Same but a newer version) and the SITC (as explained by Tangles) and then install them yourself if you have the knowhow or take them to a tuner and get him to install and tune.

There are heaps of different ways to do this, all depending on price range and what tuner you take it to.

For example I have a Power-FC, which is a replacement ECU, but it had to be dodgy wired in because you cant buy one for a RSFour, but it allows a huge range of tuning capabilities. It would also cost you around the $1500 mark, plus all the stuffinf around to get it to work.

Or there is the GReddy E-Manage, which is a piggyback ecu, but has a lot of features, esp when combined with a Profec E-01. Again fairly expensive from what I have heard, ~$1500........?

Or there are several small piggyback ecu's you can get that do specific jobs, SAFC (Fuel mixture controller), SITC (ignition timing controller), AVCR (boost controller).

It all depends on what either your personal preference is or what your tuners preference is.

Not all tuners know or want to tune all ecu's, I havnt found anyone here in Rockhampton that can tune my Power-FC, mainly because I dont have a hand controller, so they would need to run some sort of program to control the Power-FC, like my old tuner in Brisbane did, meaning if I did want it re-tuned then I will have to drive down to Brisbane for a tune.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...