Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wow... didn't think my topic would get this much of a debate happening.

lol... Good to hear everyones opinion. I'm not sure wat im doing yet, but

either way i'll definately keep the stock bov lieing around for a while.

thanks everyone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2156577
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

In my experience the best BOV you can buy is a TIAL. Maybe they dont distribute down there but anyone serious up here has one. When I say serious I mean guys running like 40psi. They are a little pricey at about $300 US but they are the best out there. Also they are by far the best sounding BOV I have ever heard. Here is a link to their site. However they do not recirculate but I am not sure why you would care about that especially if you are replacing the ECU.

TIAL BOV

Edited by BlackRBS13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2156689
Share on other sites

In my experience the best BOV you can buy is a TIAL. Maybe they dont distribute down there but anyone serious up here has one. When I say serious I mean guys running like 40psi. They are a little pricey at about $300 US but they are the best out there. Also they are by far the best sounding BOV I have ever heard. Here is a link to their site. However they do not recirculate but I am not sure why you would care about that especially if you are replacing the ECU.

TIAL BOV

Sadly, he is not running 40psi, and i dare say not a drag car or whatever your referring to.

He is talking about a reasonable street application.

Not some far fetched car using 11ty billion PSI...

The re-circ is required if you are keeping the AFM. Are these 11ty billion PSI cars using AFMs? I'll take a wild stab in the dark and say that they are probably not :unsure:

The re-circ helps idle (as GTR BOV's are open @ idle) and then stop stalling and other mis-behavioural characteristics that an AFM equipped car can sometimes encounter using an ATMO BOV.

Sometimes it can be tuned out, but what pay $500 in tuning to find that out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2156706
Share on other sites

Ok ill share my experience.

I was after the whole "uleh cool pshshhht noise" from an atmo BOV... after hearing my mates GFB Stealth FX.

So I bought me a GFB Hybrid... it has 3 features, full atmo, 50 atmo 50 plumback (meant to stop stalling and overfuelling) and full plumback.

So far Ive been driving with atmo setting and having quiet a number of stalls and backfires... it actually frustartes me greatly... so I will plumb it back to 50 50 and see if it improves. if not then I will plumb it back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2157523
Share on other sites

having ignored everyone now, i suggest no bov and just have super psycho compressor surge, and we'll count down the days to compressor wheel failure

... I run no BOV on my daily driver/track car and have had no problems.. the same goes for a lot of my friends who run higher horsepower track only cars and they have never had one single problem related to running no BOV...

It may have been posted before but do you have a documented case of turbo failure due to no BOV?

Edited by Josh
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2159413
Share on other sites

depends on your driving style.

i ran no BOV for a while. I could stop it from stalling or i could let it stall.

Was all dependant on my driving style and handling of the clutch/accelerator.

Track cars - wont notice as its WOT most of the time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2159499
Share on other sites

I have an import R31 coupe and it came factory with no BOV and it had stalling issues. Never figured why Nissan did that?

So I installed a $50 plastic Bosch item plumbed back and it works fine. At 235 rwkw there was no issue with it at all. Power is now at 280rwkw with about 20psi and the only issue is venting capacity as I get a slight flutter at lift off when at WOT and max rpm so I am going to just either whack another one on or use the standard GTR items.

People always mention leaking and BOVS. How can a BOV leak if installed after the cold side of the cooler?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2159739
Share on other sites

Sadly, he is not running 40psi, and i dare say not a drag car or whatever your referring to.

He is talking about a reasonable street application.

Not some far fetched car using 11ty billion PSI...

The re-circ is required if you are keeping the AFM. Are these 11ty billion PSI cars using AFMs? I'll take a wild stab in the dark and say that they are probably not :laugh:

The re-circ helps idle (as GTR BOV's are open @ idle) and then stop stalling and other mis-behavioural characteristics that an AFM equipped car can sometimes encounter using an ATMO BOV.

Sometimes it can be tuned out, but what pay $500 in tuning to find that out?

Actually one of my buddies is running a TIAL right now on his bone stock SR20. Lets see I know 7psi is slightly under a 11ty billion but i think you get the point. And he is using a MAF and has absolutely no problems. So your stab in the dark was a far off miss. Hence my suggestion of a BOV that will be good forever no matter what other changes you make. I doubt i am the only person who would like to do things right the first time. and I have never experienced problems without recirc but I only have experience with rb25s and sr20s and little experience with RB26's as I just got mine and it is still stock BOVs. Maybe rb26 is different. By the way link me a video or something of a car running 11ty billion PSI cause I cant recall ever seeing one. Also as far as tuning goes it sounds like he will be needing some tuning anyway with the change of ECU.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2159813
Share on other sites

Look around this forum

There are more than enough posts to backup the re-circ with MAF.

Are the countless people lying?

Like i said, its dependant on driving style as much as anything else.

I aint doing the homework for ya, if you need more reading its all accesible here in the forums past posts

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2159822
Share on other sites

Sorry if this comes out the wrong way but too many people here own these cars for the wrong reasons. Overly concerned about the "uleh" noises it should/shouldn't make.

TBH you should be more concerned about what is best for your car's operation/performance. But having said that everyone has their own interests and who am I to govern that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2160874
Share on other sites

Mate i run a GFB stealth fx, no problem with stalling or over fueling, i just got 490km out of a tank. I have mine set to full plumbback only cause i don't want to attract too much attention from the coppers. but have run it on full atmo, half atmo/plumbback and still no prob stalling. but you do have to set it up right and it gives instructions on how to do it, not hard.

Good luck with your choice dude, :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2161283
Share on other sites

Its the rule of thumb. Skylines and Atmo blow off valves do not go hand in hand. If you want some kind of induction sound just buy a pod box it up and your laughing. no stalling and you still get the "whooshhhh" sound. :) just some food for thought personally i love my silent skyline the sound of the exhaust and the RB25 engine is a sound of beauty to me :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2163325
Share on other sites

Ok, Here is my feedback after installed a HKS SSQ BOV

my also got blumb back, but I didnt use that feature, because it require an S shape pipe to connected, so I leave it vent out to the atmo, and blocked the other pipe off.

car is running fine, no stalling or backfire, and i also got rid of that wssshhhhh on light throttle!!!

really happy with it.

I still got my stock BOV, just in case.

I snapped the bolt where you adjust the sound! stupid!!! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117076-bovs/page/2/#findComment-2165099
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...