Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Battery Conversion

vannic
 Share

Recommended Posts

vannic Enthusiast

vannic

Posted
  • Author
Posted

'cause it's got to be the worst possible place to put a battery. not only do you lose valuable space in the already small boot, but you get a significant voltage loss through the cable that runs from one end of the car to the other, meaning that any problems with the charge in the battery is magnifyed.

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted
'cause it's got to be the worst possible place to put a battery. not only do you lose valuable space in the already small boot, but you get a significant voltage loss through the cable that runs from one end of the car to the other, meaning that any problems with the charge in the battery is magnifyed.

Define significant? Has it been a problem for you?

I'd suggest trying to isolate what's wrong before you do that. If it's your battery- get a new one. Otherwise, you could simply upgrade the factory wiring to better quality cable, incl the grounding points too.

That being said, I don't know anyone who's moved their battery from the boot :P

The current location also makes it a lot easier for stereo installs, no need to run cables all the way to the back if the battery is already there.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

You clearly have something wrong with your electrical system. Fix that rather than attmepting a bandaid, which probably won't fix it anyway.

If you have a look at the cable, it is a big mofo. Voltage drop is very minimal.

You say that boot is already small. What, do you plan on putting something up on the top battery shelf? hmmm, like maybe a pad of paper? or a book? maybe a pair of undies? coz you won't fit much up there

vannic Enthusiast

vannic

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Define significant? Has it been a problem for you?

I'd suggest trying to isolate what's wrong before you do that. If it's your battery- get a new one. Otherwise, you could simply upgrade the factory wiring to better quality cable, incl the grounding points too.

That being said, I don't know anyone who's moved their battery from the boot :P

The current location also makes it a lot easier for stereo installs, no need to run cables all the way to the back if the battery is already there.

it has been a little bit of a problem for me. if i dont' drive a lot for a couple of weeks, the car does have a bit of trouble starting , but my battery is only about 18 months old and still holds a good charge so that's not my problem.

It is a basic rule of electronics that the longer and thicker the cable/wire coming from a battery, the higher resistance there is,and the higher the resistance, the more voltage is lost through that cable. And obviously the more voltage you lose, the less effective the starter motor will be to crank the engine into life. So instead of you being able to lose say 2 Volts of charge from your battery and still being able to start the car, with the battery so far away you may only be able to lose 1 Volt of charge. Obviously, the more you have hanging off the battery, the more drain you'll get. It's not a huge problem for me, but it does say something that 99% of cars have the battery under the bonnet within a meter of the starter.

Obviously it's not sounding like anyone considers this mod worthwhile

ranicx Veteran

ranicx

Posted
Posted

if its still the standard size batt, then id change it to a slightly larger one, which most cars have. cause it is a small battery.

ive left my car for over 2 weeks before and it had no problems at all starting up. so i think you might have a wireing problem there that would need looking at.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

it has been a little bit of a problem for me. if i dont' drive a lot for a couple of weeks, the car does have a bit of trouble starting , but my battery is only about 18 months old and still holds a good charge so that's not my problem.

Just get a bigger battery, the original battery is to small. Even if you put it in the engine bay you will have the same problem

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

I measured the drop in voltage from the alternator and also at the back. I also did it when the car was off. The voltage drop was negligible. We're talking like 0.2V.

you obviously have an electrical problem like I said above. moving the batt won't fix it.

Could be a dead batt - just coz it's 18 months old doens't mean it's still good. might be too small.

could be bad ground - clean them and make sure they're tight.

could be dead alternator.

I've left my car for 1 month and it still started.

vannic Enthusiast

vannic

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Thicker cable = less resistance . Thats the reason they use a thick cable .

sorry guys. i got my wires crossed (pun completely intended). thicker cable does = less resistance.

what kind of batteries do others use and where did u get them? regular sales points like beaurepairs and the like don't seem to know much about the skyline's battery. One guy put a regular lead acid battery in it instead of the sealed lead acid type and the thing leaked all in my boot!!! thankfully i fixed that really quick.

Edited by vannic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...