Jump to content
SAU Community

What Should I Tune Rb30det With ?

felixy69

By felixy69,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

felixy69 Rising Star

felixy69

Posted
Posted

hello

i am Garry is building me a RB30 bottom end.....then i am putting it together here in canada, we have no experience in tuning RB30, so i would liek u guys help !!

what sorta thing should i look out for ?

what's the difference in tuning compare to RB26 ?

what computer is the best for tuning RB30 ?

what sorta things should we look out for when putting it together with rb26 head, i think we got the basic RB30-26 swap down..but there might be little details that we missed

the engine is going to sit taller, will it clear the hood, i know with rb26 and my t78 turbo it almost hits the hood, will i have even a bigger problem with this issue ?

anything other rb26/30 to BNR32 info would be a great help to us !!

thanks again !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117393-what-should-i-tune-rb30det-with/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

if it was me (which it's not)

apexi powerfc

then if that wasn't available

autronic or motec

but that all depends on what tuners are in your area, whats the point of a moetc if no one locally can tune it ?

  • 2 weeks later...
azzr32 Community Regular

azzr32

Posted
Posted

any decent ecu will work as good as any it all depends on the tuner.

you can have the best of the best motec ecu, but it will be no better then the power fc or what ever if you dont have anyone that knows how to use it to its full potential.

if i was you find a really good local tuner and use what ever they recommend.

felixy69 Rising Star

felixy69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hi

thanks for everyone's replay

i understand that a good tuner beats a good computer !

and i also understand that not every computer works good with every engine set up

so my question is what computer works the best with RB30/26 with single turbo and no MAF

thanks ...

but thanks everyone for replying it really helped alot !

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

It sounds like your building a bit of an animal and cost comes second.

If you want the best, get a Motec ecu that is suitable for your engine.

http://www.motec.com/

Sure you pay a little more for them, but you are getting the best, used in all kinds of world motorsport engines.

felixy69 Rising Star

felixy69

Posted
  • Author
Posted
what ecu's can your tuner tune?

basicly my tuner said, they do not reccomend Power FC......and told me to go for Raytec..but i called tomei and they said, since the Raytec is still very new, tuning RB30 with Raytec is not recomened, i have HKS f-con V-pro right now. but no one can tune it !! :dry:

motec is just too expensive and same as Haltec..

help

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

your tuner does not recommend powerfc....is he an auto mechanic, or a mower mechanic by any chance?? (personal joke, mate of mine is a mower mech and doesnt like powerfcs, works as a mechanic now. haha thought there might be someone else like him around canadia.) didnt mean to be an insult, my apologies.

Powerfc has got to be one of the cheapest, and easiest a/m computers to use. Its excellent value, and im sure almost everyone on here would agree with that.

Edited by r33_racer
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Power Fc is good for your average modified street car, good for cold starts and cruise etc, not the choice for a race car which it sounds like you are building, thats why most people on this forum use Power FC. Only a handful have race cars, mainly street cars. I have used Power FC, Microtech, Haltech, EMS in customers cars, different applications for each one but all have there pros & cons. Apexi D-Jetro may be the go as it uses MAP sensors over airflow meters but is a shit too tune. I am building a similar engine, RB30/26, HKS T51R etc and am definately going to run an Autronic ECU. Much more flexibility for tuner and gives you the ability to trim individual injectors to get afr's perfect in each cylinder with the aid of EGT's. Its a set and forget deal. This is the heart of the operation, rather spend a few extra dollars here than risk the engine. Youl find that alot of the time on this forum people will advise on the cheapest rather than what works better, alot are only speaking from there own experience as they have ony owned a car with the one ECU or boost controller, ie $22 bleed valves etc. You get what you pay for. In the end your tuner is the person you should listen too. best of luck.

your tuner does not recommend powerfc....is he an auto mechanic, or a mower mechanic by any chance??

Powerfc has got to be one of the cheapest, and easiest a/m computers to use. Its excellent value, and im sure almost everyone on here would agree with that.

Edited by BezerkR32
r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well ill know soon enough, we will be using powerfc pro in the 25/30 in a few weeks when it gets tuned. So i guess that will tell the story.

He also mentioned that motec and haltec are too exxy for him, how is an autronic compared to say a motec in price? I thought autronic were not too far off a motec?

Edited by r33_racer
azzr32 Community Regular

azzr32

Posted
Posted

ive used EMS and microtec i would recommend both for the 26/30, if you where in oz i would say go for the microtec because with my experiance there is more people who know how to tune them well compared to EMS. they are both well priced (around $1500au)

i dont know alot about powerfc but the tuners i know dont recommend them so i didnt use it.

but all these ecu's are useless if your tuner cant use them, so i say use what he recommends or find a tuner who can tune microtec(or whatever)

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

They are not cheap but are getting more computer for your dollar. Have to compare apples with apples.

But if he is worried about price of Haltech, it might be too expensive.

Well ill know soon enough, we will be using powerfc pro in the 25/30 in a few weeks when it gets tuned. So i guess that will tell the story.

He also mentioned that motec and haltec are too exxy for him, how is an autronic compared to say a motec in price? I thought autronic were not too far off a motec?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...