Jump to content
SAU Community

Justjap Intercooler Install

GTAAAH

By GTAAAH,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok so it didnt come with instructions and i COULD hook it up how it looks like it needs to be hooked up, but knowing my luck ill fudge it up. So any one got a link to installing a FMIC on a 32 gts-t? I remember some one had a site with a full build up of his r32 but if lost the link.

Did do a search nothing on r32 isntalls

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118267-justjap-intercooler-install/
Share on other sites
illusiVe Proficient

illusiVe

Posted
Posted

what do u need to know?

take off front bar.

line up piping

drill holes if neccessary

mock it up without tightining parts

confirm every piece used

tighten parts

test boost up your driveway, make sure boost holds (maybe just quickly up your street)

once no leaks are there.. throw on ur front bar

lebostyles Collaborator

lebostyles

Posted
Posted

firstly this is a link for an install for a r32:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=47918&hl=*r32*.

Do you have the motorised front spolier which is attached to your front bar? You will be required to remove this to make way for the front mount intercooler. You will also need to drill a hole under the battery tray so that the piping can go through. This can be done with a 3inch or 75mm hole saw. Then you will need to mount the intercooler to the front bar reinforcement. When i did the install on my r32, you will find that you will need to cut some of the front bar out so that it sits in the front bar a little better. hipe this helps. joe

pm me if you need to ask anything else :)

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ahh damnation, ran into a problem already. Removed front body kit, then the horns, now i cant figure out how to put it up. Im not struggling for width but its to long! hits the edges of some clamps which cover up some wires. Which leads me to believe im trying to mount it to high up. I need a pic of some ones install on a 32 gts-t or perhaps just some instruction on exactly where to mount it. Do i mount the top of it to the top part of the front steel bumper or the bottom of the front steel bumper. If i mount it on top part of the front steel bumper itll be about 3/4 of the way up the radiator and most of the cooler will be behind the bar. If i mount it on the bottom of the bar it will be about as high as a gutter. So id assume thats to low right?

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ahh nice i was gonna mount mine on the front bar at the top.

Trying at the moment to relocate 2 little brackets on either side of the radiator which are holding electrical wires because the intercooler doesnt fit demit. Sooo cut that the intercooler doesnt fit side ways, the ad for it made it sound so easy to fit. Spewing it didnt come with any instructions either. Not sure if most people normally cut their front bar at the bottom or what but these brackets are a pain in the asssss. This thing needs to be 20 mil shorter to fit my car!! Gonna have to cut my front bar (regardless of the fact i have a type M the core seems just to big) back about an inch to move it forward around those irritating electircal-holding brackets

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

currently angle grinding off my front bar.. Justjap intercooler kits are not BOLT ON as advertised. You need to drill holes in just about every conceivable metal panel and hack of half your kit and bumper even with the type M. If you want a cheap intercooler thats good quality then get it. If you dont like cutting bumpers up and custom fabricating joints and brackets avoid it

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
currently angle grinding off my front bar.. Justjap intercooler kits are not BOLT ON as advertised. You need to drill holes in just about every conceivable metal panel and hack of half your kit and bumper even with the type M. If you want a cheap intercooler thats good quality then get it. If you dont like cutting bumpers up and custom fabricating joints and brackets avoid it

Actually, they do bolt on if fitted correctly.

"Bolt on" doesnt mean that no trimming of your bar etc is required, it means they are a simple fit on the car itself.

Some Japanese kits are the same - Heck my "bolt on" Japanese Apexi Drag cooler required some significant trimming to the front bar!

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Im giving up, $450 bye bye. Cut 5/6 of the bottom of the front bar off and it still doesnt fit. The core is to big to fit. Id have to cut a hole out just under neath my battery which coincides nicely with the chassis rail. Not to mention that the amount of cutting i would have to do to my front kit would leave it flapping wildly and absolutely root it. The 600X300X75 core wont fit in the space just in front of the radiator, it gets jammed about 6 inches from the top of the front bar.. I could totally cut off the bottom of my front bar but i would lose quite a bit of stabilityand would have to mount it further forward. Which would mean even more hacking of my front type-M kit.. I can see my resale value dropping every few seconds. If the core was 500X300X75 it would fit but the manufacturers decided that a 600X300X75 that would "bolt on" would be more desirable... Even though it would require major modification..

So im selling Justjap intercooler kit if any one wants it, all piping for 32 gts-t = $450.

Can any one suggest a SMIC that will give me enough flow to upgrade to a 33 turbo preferably for about $450 and definitely that wont require angle grinding huge chunks of my car away and hacking all the support off my kit..

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted

Mate, bolt in kits, as mentioned above, are not just plug and play. No car mod is every that simple. Even installing a headunit often requires modification of the headunit bracket.

From the sounds of things, you don't have much experience with cars. I would suggest that you take it to a work shop and get them to install it.

You are astounded by the fact that "even with the type M" kit you had to hack it up. Why would the type M kit give more space to a fmic? The 32 gtst was not designed to fit a fmic. Of course it will require modification.

What it comes down to is that any mod will not be simple. I recently installed a new dump/front pipe. The bracket needed to be modified. Several things didn't line up, some flanges needed grinding etc.

Either take it to a shop, or have a decent attempt at it expecting to do some serious modding. E.g. you were having problmes with a few measly brackets to hold wires? just remove the bracket and cable tie the wires?

The intercooler that you are trying to install is not big at all. It has been fitted many times on r32s.

CATKICKER Mentor

CATKICKER

Posted
Posted

dude, you are going to need to drill the hole under the battery regardless (the GTR uses it stock!!)... it seems like you are trying to mount it too low if you are thinking about cutting the bottom off your bar...

The top of the cooler sits JUST under the metal piece of the front bar! a lot of people mount the top to that!!

It DOES fit!! Just sit back and think! That is the only way oyu will learn!

MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted

An r34 smic is plenty for a stock r33 turbo. But once again, it requires substantial mods to fit in an r32.

The piping faces the wrong way, and I beleive the brackets also don't line up.

The resale value on your car won't really go down by chopping the bar, because stock bars are worth nothing. I've seen them go for $20 on the forumns.

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

the type M bars you mean? Stock bars theres alot less of it ot f8ck up sorta. That and id have to get it resprayed. Cant believe how difficult it is to upgrade an intercooler.. I could put a fmic on a ford laser with alot less effort and cutting. SOooo angry, wanna sell car buy a barina and just forget about it

Edited by r32 gts-turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • GTSBoy
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • WR33KD
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By WR33KD · Posted

      I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Duncan
      Rusty roof repair

      By Duncan · Posted

      Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • Duncan
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By Duncan · Posted

      This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
×
×
  • Create New...