Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i knwo he was trying to get some info from a supra forum, but couldn't get the pictures to work, never heard from him if he worked it out..

only thing i saw was him start the car and turning the TPS with his hand to make sure everything was working.. lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118484-q45-tb/#findComment-2180944
Share on other sites

ive figured out what the wires on the q45 tps are,

does anyone know what the wires on the stock rb25det II are? colours and description

craved- i found my information from a supra forum 2, pretty useful

this is what i uncovered so far

on the q45 tps- plug that runs off the tps

Red is the 5 volt input wire

White is the TPS signal wire

Black is the sensor return wire

so i need to know-

1-what wires to match these to

2-also the second plug (wot) of the q45

cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118484-q45-tb/#findComment-2199451
Share on other sites

try pauls site, see in the diagrams section there is a engine wiring diagram

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/

see if you can decipher it.

lets us know how you go

craved, your a legend!

pauls site helped alot (cheers paul), so now i know all the wiring on the rb (WOT + TPS) and the tps of the Q45. but i still havent got the WOT diagram or wires of the q45

its a 3 pin plug which would include:

1,throttle valve switch(idle control point) IDLE

2,throttle opening output signal SIGNAL

3,throttle valve switch (power supply) FULL

ANY IDEAS PEOPLE?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118484-q45-tb/#findComment-2205372
Share on other sites

the plug on the tps body is for wot and idle.

take a multimeter and have at it, center pin is common ground for the two so from what i remember if the tps is face 'down' (brass bit down that is) then the idle is on the left of center and wot at the right of center...

i might have that reversed lol...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118484-q45-tb/#findComment-2206245
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Here is the diagram guys.

Very simple

tpswiringdiagramforrb25tovq459.jpg

dsc002940fc.jpg

In the picture and diagram it illustrates the way it sits in the car attatched to the plenum which should be always upside down to suite the throttle cable layout but it all depends on the plenum.

But to under stand which way the vertical wires are on the plug.

So from top (bonnet side) to bottom (ground side) on the plug

Green

Black/White (Can also be just black)

Red

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118484-q45-tb/#findComment-2264339
Share on other sites

hey guys, just a quick one, what throttle cable are you running with the q45 throttle and GReddy intake?

any help would be great

NutR33

awesome work SLIDE your a champion this needs to b a sticky, im still waiting for my damm greddy plenum autobarn screwing me around.........should b here in 2 weeks

btw slide just as nutr33 asked, r u using the standard throttle cable?

cheers,

fangz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118484-q45-tb/#findComment-2266675
Share on other sites

We had a custom one made up by a shop on the Gold Coast.

Sounds funny but most large Boat shops can make up throttle cables.

You just tell them the throttle cable length you want and how much inner and outer lenth you want for the sleve.

Wgich is what we did.

Some ENZED's also are able to do them.

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118484-q45-tb/#findComment-2270952
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...