Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can you get someone to press it for you, and then stick your head under the car? (car off obviously)

Maybe it could be the slave cylinder pushing on the fork? As far as the engine bay goes, your pedal is hooked onto a rod that pushes through the firewall and into the clutch master cylinder. That rod could make some noise possibly? I don't know if it is lubricated by the clutch fluid in the reservoir.

Anyway, isolate where it is coming from, then you might find you need a master or slave cylinder reconditioned. Personally, my clutch pedal's spring was VERY loud until I took to it with some silicone lubricant.

Hrmm whats the easiest way to get access to the clutch fork to lubricate it?

Cheers

I used a flexible piece of small diameter hose attatched to a cannister of silicone based lucbricant and just fed the hose (around 45cm) to the clutch fork and gave it a nice little spray, seemed to work fine.

you will want to put something that will stay there on it. like grease or something similar. the main spot it squeaks from is where the clutch forks sits on the pivot bolt. if it gets really dry then you don't drive it for a while (month or so) when you next put your foot on the clutch, if they have rusted together it will snap the pivot bolt. i have my bolt snap, and its a few hours work to get the gearbox off and back on, but only cost me 90 cents to fix it. mine broke off at the bell housing so we had to use a tool to get the thread out. a guy i know with another r33 had his break right at the fork and it ended up stuffing his clutch as well.

to lube it up get some grease on the end of your finger, get under the car on the drivers side, and you will see a lever coming out of the gearbox. that is the clutch fork. on the side opposite to where the slave cylinder pushes on it you can slide your finger in there and apply the grease.

apparently snapping pivot bolts is common on skylines, especially when the clutch has been replaced. the mechanics over tighten the bolt. they need to be firm, but not over tight. will thry to take a pic of where i am talking about tonight.

a spray grease or grease gun with a hose would make the job easier. but any lube is better than nothing, but the thicker the better as it will stay there longer and lubricate better. also worth putting a bit on where the slave cylinder pushes on the clutch fork.

Yeah I looked at all that. So you can get your finger in under that grommet to get some grease in there?

Does you go in behind the fork as in closer to rear of car or in front?

Cheers

Edited by ActionDan
  • 2 weeks later...

i had this problem, thou greased basically everything possible (btw when u do this make sure u don't spray ur clutch plate!!), still didn't go. ended up having to remove box replace the pivot release ball and withdrawl lever, they had excessive movement in them causing a metal on metal kinda squeak. Also replaced clutch slave cylinder at same time, cause mid bleeder went only a few weeks earlier and once one goes, generally they all start to fail at same time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...