Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Great thanks for the reply mate.

Assuming that the ATTESA computer is always receiving data from the sensors that you mentioned above, what stops the computer from feeding the torque split gauge the input received from the sensors mentioned for example if the car is in RWD mode.

In addition, would a failure in the transfer case itself affect the reading of the torque split gauge?

Edited by Remix-
Great thanks for the reply mate.

Assuming that the ATTESA computer is always receiving data from the sensors that you mentioned above, what stops the computer from feeding the torque split gauge the input received from the sensors mentioned for example if the car is in RWD mode.

In addition, would a failure in the transfer case itself affect the reading of the torque split gauge?

good question, cannot answer without further investigation.

no, we recently had an R33 on the dyno with zero front drive (stuffed transfer case) that would not even turn the front wheels (4 wheel dyno) and the torque split gauge read as per normal.

BTW did you find the air bleed connector under the drivers kick panel ? was going to respond to your thread but forgot to. Much easier and better to do it that way then have to put the car on stands and run it ( im unsure if this would properly bleed system anyway).

Interesting!

I am pretty sure my transfer case is buggered, although my torque split gauge is not reading at all! I would have thought that even if it was buggered that the gauge would have read normally as per the R33 you mentioned above.

Yup I located the air bleed connector - all good ;)

Cheers!

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...