Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does any body know if a rough idle can be caused by leaking intercooler pipes. Because my 32 is idle ing up n down between 500-2000 on and off. and if u hold it on around 2500 it has a miss occasionally. Can stale fuel cause this also as my car has been sitting for the last 3 months. any held wuld be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118959-rough-idle-intercooler-leak/
Share on other sites

Does it ever stall out on you at lights or pulling up somewhere and stopping?

or just rough idle?

i think there is a diy article on how to reset your computer idle and base idle, there are 2 different settings if im not mistaken.

cheers mate

if it idles like that how does it drive when you accelerate?

is it drivable?

does it rev out and boost properly?

I jsut recently had a problem where the car would cut out.

nd occasionally rev between 500 - 2000 rpm.

my issue turned out to be a dirty air flow meter.

I took the AFM off the car (1 plug 1 clamp and 4 bolts) and sprayed the inside of the AFm with degreaser then washed it out.

shook it dry then dried it out properly with a hair dryer.

now it workds great, idles better than it ever did and revs out clean.

it is also smoother to drive.

might be worth a check if you havn't already done so

Could be the case of a stuffed BOV..

is yours the stock one? or some aftermarket vented BOV?

If its an aftermarket one, it could have ceased up and letting air come into the motor before the AFM gets to read it when your idling hence causing the car to stall

Edited by johnnilicte

or if your bov is the stock one and you have vented it to atmo then it could be leaking. we took the plumb back hose of my mates 33 on the weekend and it wouldn't idle unless we put our hand over the bov to stop it leaking. and mine does the same thing. we plug up the plumb back hose and it won't idle unless we plug up the bov as well cause it was leaking like a $2 hooker. both bovs dump ok and don't leak boost under revs but they leak at idle when not plumbed back. any ideas why?

i'm looking at upgrading it to an aftermarket plumb back.

Edited by mad082
Does any body know if a rough idle can be caused by leaking intercooler pipes. Because my 32 is idle ing up n down between 500-2000 on and off. and if u hold it on around 2500 it has a miss occasionally. Can stale fuel cause this also as my car has been sitting for the last 3 months. any held wuld be great.

Mine did this after I got it back from a respray. They had it for 3months and it apparently hadn't been started the whole time, simply pushed around.

Mine idled like crap, blew lots of black smoke and had to be held up around 2500-3000rpm otherwise it would stall.

Eventually it came good, unsure exactly what it was but approx 6months later the injectors died, they began stalling the car when cold, it was really difficult to start when cold and a flat spot could be felt on the tip of the accelerator, the flat spot was much worse when cold. I wasn't able to touch the accelerator if it was idling ok as it would cause it to stall instantly. Fuel consumption was bad also.

Replaced injectors, fuel consumption instantly awesome and no starting problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...