Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

me and my bro always let our cars warm up for 1 min, if temp needle is right at cold, then drive of slowly, shifting no higher then 3000rpm.. until temp needle is at normal indication. Keeping a auto skyline off boost is quite tricky, because at cold start, its running retarded timing too, so even the slightlest hill means it wants to at least get to 0 vaccuum. :D

oh we both atm use pennzoil 15w 50w semi syn

Edited by J_R32

By the time I get 2km down the road, the engine better be warm if it knows what's good for it because it is going to get the fork reved out of it and the full 15PSI boost up the motorway onramp... every morning.

But that's ok, because "Diamonds are Forever"

Edited by PTR33

Yeah normally takes a min - open garage, start car, back car out, close garage, then driven under 3k RPM until its up to temp before it gets positive boost.

It's silly, a waste of petrol, and can even be worse for your car, if you let it sitting there idling for 5+min etc.

Depends on the car... my current pride and joy (v8 commodore - until I get enuf ca$h together for the R33) gets started, left until the revs settle in (usually about as long as it takes to kick on the CD, get my sunnies, light a smoke and roll down the window). Then gets taken easy until the needle moves towards the H and settles between 1/4 and 1/2.

I don't see the point in idling for a long while - seen what it does to diesel generators (glazed bores = bad ), imagine it wouldn't be any better for a petrol one.

The beater (read for the train station) gets kicked over, dropped into gear and gone str8 away - but for $300... who cares anyway :D, come to think of it.. not even sure if the engine in that even needs oil :)

Yeah normally takes a min - open garage, start car, back car out, close garage, then driven under 3k RPM until its up to temp before it gets positive boost.

It's silly, a waste of petrol, and can even be worse for your car, if you let it sitting there idling for 5+min etc.

my dad always cracks it at me if I do this... he reckons if I start the car before I open the garage, and trip over something in the garage and pass out.. then I will do so in an unventilated room with a car pumping out co2 emmisions.. or CO if you don't have a cat..

My oil pressure gauge in my 32gtst works occaisionly, and does all sorts of strange things, as many 32 gtst drivers will know, I turn it on let the revs drop to 1100rpm.. then drive.. I try to stay off boost, but there's a lot of hills around my place, so sometimes this is difficult. Use motul 4100turbolite

geez.. we're all a little precious :)

30 seconds at most, drive off.. boot it if so desired.

It's usually only about a minute before you have to stop again when you come to the first set of traffic lights or whatever anyhow when you're sitting there idling again.

geez.. we're all a little precious :starwars:

30 seconds at most, drive off.. boot it if so desired.

It's usually only about a minute before you have to stop again when you come to the first set of traffic lights or whatever anyhow when you're sitting there idling again.

Expecially when one spends ~6k on a motor/head. ;)

I so wish sometimes I did what sky30 did.. s/h rb30e for a hundred or two, drop a s/h rb25 head on, big turbo and boost the crap out of it. :w00t:

I usually let the car sit for about 1 minute then drive off try keep it below 3000rpm till the Power FC hand controller says the waters about 60 deg then ill take it up to 4 grand till its at its normal operating temp (around 72 deg) then boost till my hearts content.

i don't bother letting it idle that much...get in start it pic a song on the ipod empty my pockets and back out the drive way... then jsut drive off and keep the revs low and off boost... u end up at stop signs and lights so quickly it makes no difference...

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...