Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

C'mon Rob! You put your car through harsher punishment on most cruises. I'm serious too! As Clint mentioned above, apart from the potential for a bit of clutch punishment (which depends on how you drive it?) the car will be fine. Trust me mate you'll have a absolute ball :) You'll be hooked for sure!

For $50 you can cram in at the very least 5 x 200km/h blasts without any hassles from the law, + you'll have hard fast evidence of just how well those new found 160rwkw move the black beast :D When you DO hit the drag strip I'd recommend upping your boost level, now you've got the S-AFC2 & FMIC 10-12psi will be fine for a few quick runs.

The JAFFA mobile should head out too!

It'd be good to get a few of us SAU guys running. That way we can line each other up.

Rob,

I can organise a helmet for you if need be? Let me know.

I'm buying an open face helmet from Revolution Racegear this Thursday. $80 brand new. ADR approved. Nothing flash, but it's comfy & looks ok.

To run at a street meet you'll need the following:

ADR approved helmet

Full length pants/trackies etc... long sleeved top

$50 cash

A roadworthy car - no noticeable leaks etc...

EDIT: Some additions -

Your terminal speed or trap speed (TS) is an average speed taken over the last 30ft b4 the 400m line & 30ft after the 400m line. I'm guessing a stock GTS25t would trap in the mid/high 90mph region? A car with a 100-105mph (161-169km/h) trap speed probably wouldn't hit the limiter until past the TS area so it wouldn't matter. If you trap @ 110+mph then the limiter will hold you back (no limiter for me :( )

Elapsed Time (ET) - taken from the time your car breaks the staging beams till it breaks the 400m beam, irrespective of reaction time (for street meets).

For more info have a read here - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/.../offstreet.html & here - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/...034/timing.html

Ignore the AIR website street meet calender, it's waaay out of date!

You wont hit the speed cut drifty - if you did you would be pulling

12s.sounded good on the dyno today - does need more boost.

The rumour is that the usual winter Sunday street meets may not be on so this MAY be the last one for a while(I hope not)

So come out a have a go.

Driftspec - just drive like you normally do & you'll do fine.

Originally posted by Munro

Driftspec - just drive like you normally do & you'll do fine.

:( Classic! Oh but best to keep it pointed straight ahead for at least 400m Rob :O

No passengers allowed during a pass.

Awesome yep I am sold :) , I will be there if I can get leave pass hehe.

Yeah I know I need more boost for sure John , need to get an EBC at some stage when money permits... Mark said should easily get over 200rwkw safely with the setup I have so looking forward to that one day.

lol but sideways action is fun Matt :(

damn no passengers :O

Passed Denzo in his JMS R33 (heading opposite way) the other day in my 33, we both looked over. I was thinking "hmmm nice car!" He was probably thinking "POS" :(

Thanks mate :O I've done a bit more tinkering since you last saw it.

45k isn't bad for all the gear it's got! If ALL the gear is part of the 45k deal?

Regency & any of our cars don't mix well :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...