Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

as stated my car makes kind of a rattle noise when i rev the car just a bit over idle but the noise goes away probably at 1700rpms.

the engine sounds fine then it kinda goes *dud dud dud dud dud* but really fast, almost sounds like a bearing is gone in the cam cover.

a freind of mine said he was looking at a gtr and the owner said the noise was fine.

the car is a 96 rr33 gt-st.

any thoughts?

cheers

Possibly the cam belt is a little loose? My GTR made a similar noise that i coulda sworn was coming from the engine, Benno @ Racepace fixed it in about 10mins when it was there for other work. :P

that happend to me i had the exact problem it was my timeing belt it takes a while to get to but if that snaps man i wouldent want to be u on the top of the engin at the front there should be a sticker the last time the timing belt was changed mine wasent changed at all from when it was made im glad i did now it runs a bit better and no nise any more it cost me 225 for timing belt and to install it as well because i got some other stuff done as well to it witch lowed to labour cost

Yeah i have felt that, and when i rev it by pulling on the throttle it gets louder then goes away after a certain rpm.

im buying a cooler and boost controler etc and i was gonna boost it to 12psi but i think ill wait till i get the belt changed.

hoping to have it done in a couple of weeks.

ill get him to do the full 100k service.

anyone know how much im looking at?

cheers

Mine cost somewhere around $400-500, but that was because the idiots at my local nissan dealer decided it was a good idea to take off the front bar, drain the cooling system, remove the radiator, change the belt and tensioner arm (i had asked for that), and then replace my radiator fluid with expensive nissan branded stuff. This isn't really helping but i'm just venting frustrations - originally they had quoted me about $200 or so.

  • 10 months later...

Hi i think i have this same problem, Cam belt was changed 2 months ago, last couple weeks i have developed a rattle just above idle but only when cold, the noise is deff coming from the timing belt cover,

have attached recording, is this the same problem? any ideas on how to resolve?

(have searched many skyline forums and this seems to be closest to the problem)

Cheers

Dazzler

Recording3.wav

P.s sorry about the old thread... couldent find much else on this...

Edited by Dazzler22
Mine cost somewhere around $400-500, but that was because the idiots at my local nissan dealer decided it was a good idea to take off the front bar, drain the cooling system, remove the radiator, change the belt and tensioner arm (i had asked for that), and then replace my radiator fluid with expensive nissan branded stuff. This isn't really helping but i'm just venting frustrations - originally they had quoted me about $200 or so.

How else would u change the timing belt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...