Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahahah....

I know what he package will cost fitted and tuned. Just buy another IS.

Been there done that with my car.

im only looking at realisticly one day putting in a standardish 1j anyway...a 2j with a t51r is overkill, exciting and pant wetting but overkill!

IM guessing it only plays one at a time.....

honestly though, with a big tv u coud watch 5 at once, and jsut listen to one.

i use to do it with the foxtel, 10 channels at one.

Hmmm banana, havent seen them in a while

SECOND AND THIRD RIMS ARE NICE>

im only looking at realisticly one day putting in a standardish 1j anyway...a 2j with a t51r is overkill, exciting and pant wetting but overkill!

That and your not going to get a TT 6sdp front cut under $7k these days too. Even if you buy the aristo TT motor, the 6 spd is atleast $3k, if you can find one.

1jz will be fun, I went through the 1.5jz faze not too long ago, can get some of the work done for trade, but meh at best my car will only be a 1500kg when stripped. far better then the 1700kg, but still a whale none the less.

Edited by Nismo_Boy
That and your not going to get a TT 6sdp front cut under $7k these days too. Even if you buy the aristo TT motor, the 6 spd is atleast $3k, if you can find one.

1jz will be fun, I went through the 1.5jz faze not too long ago, can get some of the work done for trade, but meh at best my car will only be a 1500kg when stripped. far better then the 1700kg, but still a whale none the less.

what rims do you think would suit my car?? Where were you going to get the conversion done? I need someone to do my conversion for free, i dont like my chances. rofl.

That and your not going to get a TT 6sdp front cut under $7k these days too. Even if you buy the aristo TT motor, the 6 spd is atleast $3k, if you can find one.

1jz will be fun, I went through the 1.5jz faze not too long ago, can get some of the work done for trade, but meh at best my car will only be a 1500kg when stripped. far better then the 1700kg, but still a whale none the less.

You want a manual 2j, I want an auto 1u.

Get some figures and get back to me :domokun:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...