Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol just looking through the old piccies on my computer...I wonder why my old turbo died?? Lol damn Nebo

lol i can beat that. i melted my exhaust manifold one night

no shane, i couldnt see or hear any form of wastegate, internal or external. it has a s6 rx7 turbo on it atm. its doing the whole flutter thing when you dont release the pressure.

here's a thread on it link

lol i can beat that. i melted my exhaust manifold one night

no shane, i couldnt see or hear any form of wastegate, internal or external. it has a s6 rx7 turbo on it atm. its doing the whole flutter thing when you dont release the pressure.

here's a thread on it link

If it runs 6 psi it has a wastegate. It has to or it would run 11ty boost

Flutter is related to the BOV

Morning Bitches....

Unlimited boost is cool like when your vacum line slipps off the actuator :laugh:

makes of big bang and heaps of POWER :P

did you take pics mike? did the turbo have an Actuator??

shane

cars dirty :huh:

:O...u better be joking, or if ur not, u better had taken those photo's last nite :laugh:

The turbo timer thought so....it decided a 15 minute cool down time was necessary lol

damn 15 minutes aye, thats pretty long :P

Morning Bitches....

Unlimited boost is cool like when your vacum line slipps off the actuator :P

makes of big bang and heaps of POWER :wave:

did you take pics mike? did the turbo have an Actuator??

hey biatch, how goes things?

contacted dan yet? :P

lol i can beat that. i melted my exhaust manifold one night

no shane, i couldnt see or hear any form of wastegate, internal or external. it has a s6 rx7 turbo on it atm. its doing the whole flutter thing when you dont release the pressure.

here's a thread on it link

Sif the looser on boostloosing know what they are talking about.... read the first few post and pissed my self laughing....

all turbos need a wastegate be it internal or external, or elso you cant control the amount of boost your hitting.

the s6 engin has internal BOV and ther turbo was internally gated, well that was the case on my cousins RX7....

Mike you sure you know what your looking at when it comes to engins....

The turbo timer thought so....it decided a 15 minute cool down time was necessary lol

mine died because of it, it just went "nup, f*ck you! too hot!"

If it runs 6 psi it has a wastegate. It has to or it would run 11ty boost

Flutter is related to the BOV

ok, i worded that wrong. i know it has an internal wastegate but he has removed the stock bov (dont know why) and left it as that.

Morning Bitches....

Unlimited boost is cool like when your vacum line slipps off the actuator :laugh:

makes of big bang and heaps of POWER :P

did you take pics mike? did the turbo have an Actuator??

no, no pics. phone decided it doesnt like multimedia anymore, stupid nokia

Mike I cant belive you linked a discussion on Boost explaining flutter.

The thread you need is "the difference between a wastegate and a BOV" :wave:

i know the difference, but thats exactly what it was doing. to quote: "the noise your turbo makes as the throttle body closes, and the compressed air is "chopped up" by the blades, and makes that noise"

apparently it really f*cks the turbo up

Hey Shane,

so when are ou getting a new mobile number... can you believe this funny kent, work on my car on saturday with f**k all results and in the End ended up scoring a mobile phone...

man i asked everyone shane and noone is missing a mobile... :P WTF!!! oh well if soime one comes and says "dude have you seen my mobile?" i'll be like :laugh: He he he

apparently it really f*cks the turbo up

Depends what boost it does it at..mine does it at 7psi or less, I have the BOV spring pretty tight to avoid leaking at idle and stalling, If it does it at high boost it can be a problem as it strains the shaft with the sudden stopping of the blades.

This car is only running 6psi so it is fine..when you want to run more a BOV would be wise, that said Dave ran no BOVs on his T04Z at 20psi and it is fine, apparently BB turbos are more resistant

Sif the looser on boostloosing know what they are talking about.... read the first few post and pissed my self laughing....

ok, two of the guys in that thread do actually know what they are talking bout. had a chat with them a while ago. the guy that started the thread was a tool, obviously.

Hey Shane,

so when are ou getting a new mobile number... can you believe this funny kent, work on my car on saturday with f**k all results and in the End ended up scoring a mobile phone...

man i asked everyone shane and noone is missing a mobile... :wave: WTF!!! oh well if soime one comes and says "dude have you seen my mobile?" i'll be like :laugh: He he he

phone, what phone? :P

sick moit, the farking thing is locked to the vodaphone network, so ill just have to get one of them sim's

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...