Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have used GReddy type R bov's on all my quick cars. Fair few people do, IMHO one of the best.

Greddy%20Type%20R%20BOV-2T.jpg

RRP used to be around $800 no idea what they are now

I have used GReddy type R bov's on all my quick cars. Fair few people do, IMHO one of the best.

Greddy%20Type%20R%20BOV-2T.jpg

RRP used to be around $800 no idea what they are now

Thanx Josh. as a matter of interest, what is the difference between a good bov and a bad one. surely they are just an air valve designed to release at a certain pressure?

Thanx Josh. as a matter of interest, what is the difference between a good bov and a bad one. surely they are just an air valve designed to release at a certain pressure?

I personally have found the cheaper ones to leak. I don't know enough about the Tial ones to comment to be honest, however the GReddy ones never have leaked for me.

My only criteria is they don't leak and they hold up to big boost. Looks and "rice" sound don't come into it, the Type R is pretty quite to be honest as well, which suits me fine.

I personally have found the cheaper ones to leak. I don't know enough about the Tial ones to comment to be honest, however the GReddy ones never have leaked for me.

My only criteria is they don't leak and they hold up to big boost. Looks and "rice" sound don't come into it, the Type R is pretty quite to be honest as well, which suits me fine.

X2. not interested in sound at all. the quiter the better actually.

I have used GReddy type R bov's on all my quick cars. Fair few people do, IMHO one of the best.

Greddy%20Type%20R%20BOV-2T.jpg

RRP used to be around $800 no idea what they are now

the only thing I don't like about them is the fact they are physically so big!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...