Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no but i came on here to tell u my GTR did.. oh wait im a compulsive lier.. forget what i said no way could a gtr do that no no no.. :D

settle im mucking around.. bah i knw of a satria and a rav4 that could smoke ur v8 boys.. vr4 awd satria.. and a 700hp 3sgte rav lol

My GTR > your GTR :P

A gtr beat me, as did a few rx7's. Maybe you were able to in a GTR. My point was, u didn't in your Gtir

gtir took down a crossfire lol.. stupid euro heavy weight lol.. :P

My GTR > your GTR :D

what GTR.. my N1 equiped 90 model lol... bah congrats i spent shit all on that and had my fun..

gtir took down a crossfire lol.. stupid euro heavy weight lol.. :D

what GTR.. my N1 equiped 90 model lol... bah congrats i spent shit all on that and had my fun..

Guarantee I spent less, had less work done and was still faster :P

Guarantee I spent less, had less work done and was still faster :no:

is that a fact..

i brought mine for under 19k.. 1.5k on body and paint thanks to shipping incident...

19k.. feteched me a genuine kms 90,000kms grade 4 gtr with N1 bits coming out of its ass... :D

and this was in 2005 :P

is that a fact..

i brought mine for under 19k.. 1.5k on body and paint thanks to shipping incident...

19k.. feteched me a genuine kms 90,000kms grade 4 gtr with N1 bits coming out of its ass... :D

and this was in 2005 :P

And it was f**ked with bits of silver paper trying to keep the spark in.

is that a fact..

i brought mine for under 19k.. 1.5k on body and paint thanks to shipping incident...

19k.. feteched me a genuine kms 90,000kms grade 4 gtr with N1 bits coming out of its ass... :D

and this was in 2005 :P

Power and 1/4 Mile?

And it was f**ked with bits of silver paper trying to keep the spark in.

lol did u like my heat shield made of alfoil for the AFM plug.. lol thought it was quite smart.. the nismo dump pipes radiated alot of heat.. and i reckon the heat shrink would have melted with the dump pipe heat..

any other valid acquisitions noel.. or u done bein jealous... :D as if buy a GTST..

Oh hai boys

hi big boy get that harmonic balancer yet..??

Same. I rather spend my night waxing my pubes
Vaild point, sucks to be people who get em though

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA....can you do mine as well....i need something to bite down on though while your doing it.

Oh hai boys

git down bish :D

time to drift button my 180 lol

what you havent done it yet.....n00b

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...