Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hehe great feedback guys,

honestly im not too sure, i like the look of all of them, i do understand the argument though,

if i get rotas this is a possible conversation at carwash:

Colin/brandon/all others/new guy etc : oh adam sweet rims man, u shuld get the volk sticker on them bro would look better

Adam: nah bro theyr not te37s they ROTA GRIDS 18x10 + 15 , from england, theyr not fakes designed pretty well cost me quite a bit as well

Colin/brandon/all others/new guy etc : theyr still te37 replicas bro, you FAIL LOL , look nice though

XD9 conversation

Colin/brandon/all others/new guy etc: nice rims adam, cant say multispokes suit the 33 as well as the 32, but oh well theyr Works, better than ROTA's

Adam: thanks bro. sorry i gotta get back to cleaning the 50 spokes that i have now LOL

i guess the big f**k up would be if i end up spending close to 3.5 grand and then not liking the rims, the xd9s have dish, but they sort of only look right if i u look at them from a certain angle, i would consider real te37s but money is a factor and also the 18x10.5 +15 in te37s dont look as concave as the ROTA GRIDs,

so real dilemma here, other option would be just get the suspension kit, and see how the advans look, XD9's have 6 to 8 weeks delievery time, whereas rota are ready to shop now should arrive very soon, BIG MT, have u seen that thread where some guy on SAU tested the shit out of GRIDs on a R35 GTR on a track, and then got them xrayed and they wil perfect, no cracks or dents,

fml.

hehe great feedback guys,

honestly im not too sure, i like the look of all of them, i do understand the argument though,

if i get rotas this is a possible conversation at carwash:

Colin/brandon/all others/new guy etc : oh adam sweet rims man, u shuld get the volk sticker on them bro would look better

Adam: nah bro theyr not te37s they ROTA GRIDS 18x10 + 15 , from england, theyr not fakes designed pretty well cost me quite a bit as well

Colin/brandon/all others/new guy etc : theyr still te37 replicas bro, you FAIL LOL , look nice though

Dont worry. We wouldnt. Actually we will only say something if you did put the stickers on.

http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/cgi-bin/cgi2/e...p;model=040_57D

Cheap Rays. But then again, the thin spokes doesnt really agree to my opinion of rims on 33s.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/18...gr-t300775.html

Some euro love?

ive jst been reading up on rota's, with works ofcourse you dont really need to,

this is what ive found,

its either you love them or hate them, theres no middle ground, some people think theyr cheap rip offs and break easy, others have prooved they dont and theyr more than replicas, ROTA has taken alot of time engineering them, and offering better offsets at good prices, but theyr cast wheel not forged so are abit more susceptible to breaking,

not very popular with GTRs here in australia, but having a look at aht GTR UK forums lots of people are running them without any problems,

lets crank the debate up,

ROTA GTR (LMGT4) vs ROTA GRID (Te37) both in white same size and offset 18x10 +15

yeh il be getting them through the trader on SAU Steanzo-ROTA_OZ or sumthn, hes runs cartel-online.com,

official disturbutor of ROTA rims in AUS,

okk - id call around before you go thru him, option 1 would be able to do you a wheel and tyre package - dave and i dealt with them on monday - excellent customer service

and im pretty sure joshie hits them up too

Rota GTR then if you really want them so badly. I'm sure the whole point of us not likely rota is simply because they're replica, meaning imitations. I'd much rather get second hand ones than get replica myself but that's just me (which is why I got mine second hand). But hey, with the argument of being stronger because its forged, it doesnt bother me because I doubt I'll ever drive in a way or make that much power to destroy the rims. Just for your info, those CR Kai I had before were sold to my friend for 1.5k, so these rims really only cost me 1.7k.

Anyway, I thought you like your rims? Why spend 3k+ on new ones when you dont have any issue with the current ones? I'm sure theres better places to spend that money on.

ok, 1750 vs 1440

up to you

ill stay out

geesh is that option1? and same offset and size?

if so then i cnt repply complain, thats bloody cheap for brand new rims.

oh yeh brandon someones sellin 19x10.5 +11 VOLK GT-C for 3000 LOL, what do you think,

and the rota p45r are 360each and they come in 18*9.5+12

p45r.jpg

ok, 1750 vs 1440

up to you

ill stay out

geesh is that option1? and same offset and size?

if so then i cnt repply complain, thats bloody cheap for brand new rims.

okk - id call around before you go thru him, option 1 would be able to do you a wheel and tyre package - dave and i dealt with them on monday - excellent customer service

and im pretty sure joshie hits them up too

Yea. Option 1's got the cheapest tyres you can ever get in Brisbane. Just make your mind up whether you want Feds or KU (either way they're still the cheapest in Brisbane).

Tris: thats my recommendation for your 180 ages ago. If I've got a drift spec car, the 57d in fluoro orange or yellow would be my pick. Hahaha. Full on attention seeker. And considering they're less than 2000 delivered from streeter, definitely 1 of the cheapest Rays around.

post-42920-1262151625_thumb.jpg

geesh is that option1? and same offset and size?

if so then i cnt repply complain, thats bloody cheap for brand new rims.

oh yeh brandon someones sellin 19x10.5 +11 VOLK GT-C for 3000 LOL, what do you think,

If this is what I think it is, that guy f**ked up and bought the wrong faced GT-C. That model cannot clear your brembos man. If not, GOOD BUY!

Back on the Rotas, get the fattest's please for that kinda price. No 9.5 unless thats the only width they've got.

265s are fine on a 10.5 inch rim. not a big stretch at all.

colin yours are 18x10 + 18 right? biggest offset u cn get in XD9's?

how do the 265s feel? any rubbing at all? and how much lower is the car from standard height?

i dont want the rims sticking too much, my mate got defected for it lol, but i thnk his were stretched quite alot.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...