Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

do the job properly and get splitfires ;)

some of us are students and must survive on rice and soy sauce to keep the beast running :rofl:

btw if you gonna use the silicon sealer make sure you use the industrial grade stuff like MKDR33 said, as the normal silicon wont withstand high temperatures.

This stuff withstand up to 205c i hope it doesnt get much hotter than that in engine bay

i've attached a picture, a bit dark but should help. It cost just under $11 in bunnings, can't go wrong m8

:rofl:

post-29560-1156003898.jpg

The tape will shrink after a while... the only repair solution is the Industrial Grade Silicone... it has been way over 6 months since i have done my coil packs and (knock on wood) there is no misfire to be seen..

Edited by QRI05E

what part do you silicon on the s1 coils? do you have to leave the metal bit that bolts down clean or just soak it in the sh*t? i pulled my engine apart last night thought the timing belt jumped a tooth but after spendin 5 hours pullin things apart only thing left is the coils

what part do you silicon on the s1 coils? do you have to leave the metal bit that bolts down clean or just soak it in the sh*t? i pulled my engine apart last night thought the timing belt jumped a tooth but after spendin 5 hours pullin things apart only thing left is the coils

i have left the metal brace clean, this does not affect the coilpack, but if you are soaking them you might aswell soak the whole coilpack..

  • 3 weeks later...

yeh, i didnt have to regap neither, but this fellow reckons he is still getting missfires, unless its running too rich, maybe he should try regap them just incase..

also its a good idea to regap if ur thinking of running over 12psi boost..

Edited by MKDR33
  • 2 weeks later...

whereabouts are the cracks generally, and how far across does the tape need to go?any reason why not to tape around that whole section of the coil?pics would be much appreciiated, still dont quite know where to tape, and will be doing in the weekend again

cheers

whereabouts are the cracks generally, and how far across does the tape need to go?any reason why not to tape around that whole section of the coil?pics would be much appreciiated, still dont quite know where to tape, and will be doing in the weekend again

cheers

dude ive added pics on page 1 of this thread..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=119403

yeh i know that mate, i mean does the tape go all e way around the coil or just around the cracked bit?also in the pics i dont se any cracks???

They are hairline, you can barely see them. Get a magnifying glass and they should be more obvious. Tape the entire thing to be sure, a few wraps around every bit of it. Often there is blueish scalding there from the heat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...