Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well, I noticed on cruise, boost, off boost, everything, my car is pouring black smoke.

Even with the AFR's running at 15.7:1. I'm going to assume the injector setup by my "mate" of a wanker tuner is set up incorrectly... (this guy really was a waste of money..)

I have just had a look at the Datalogit Settings, and it says that my injector size adjust is 77.0, and my lag time is 0.40.

Now, the datalogit says that to work it out:

Old Size Divided by the new size = Difference.

370cc / 555cc = 66.7% (the tuner has entered 77.0%...wtf?)

old lag time minus new lag time = final lag time.. The tuner has entered 0.40ms.. I want to see if this is stuffed up too..

I don't know the standard lag time for R33 injectors, can anyone help me?

Edited by The Mafia

I might be able to help but I am just learning this stuff myself.

From what I know the stock injectors have a lag time of 0.58ms. Google tells me that nismo 555cc injectors have a lag time of 0.71 ms but not sure if you have these. Best bet to ring nissan dealer and ask the question.

From what I understand, the injector lag column is the difference between stock and your new injectors so in your case should be (0.71-0.58) = +0.13ms, however you will notice that you can only select in increments of 4 or something so 0.12 is probably the best bet.

As for the injector trim calculation 370/555*100 = 66.7% is correct but be careful that your "tuner" hasnt also applied a 11% trim to each cell in your INJ settings.

Hope this helps.

The inj. correction really doesn't make any difference providing the base map has been tuned to suit, as Color_of_green has stated.

Its pretty much the same with lag time but it IS best to get the lag time right.

I'm curious as to how its pouring black smoke?

On idle? Under boost? Under quick heavy throttle?

Mine with a flat 12:1 afr still trickles a little black smoke on wot, it can especially be seen at night time in the head lights of the dissapearing car behind. :(

If its dropping a puff here or there look at the accel enrichment. I believe with the pfc you are able to reduce the sensitivity of the accel enrichment which 'MAY' pick up a little fuel economy as it doesn't drop out of closed loop as easy. I know with mine it is very sensitive to throttle input, the slightest little quick flick of the throttle and it drops out of closed loop.

i don't know about the 550's but the difference between stock sr (which are the same as rb25 anyway) and nismo 740's is only about .02ms i think (it's been a while since i set it up)

The difference between my stockers and my 550 single pintle (laggy) injectors is only .12 from memory.

I'll dig up my apex engineering sheets when i get home and check. Are you sure the lag isn't .04, .40 is way off?

Sorry Mafia dude, since we are on the topic i'd like to ask a few too..

So just say that the tuner has inputted wrong settings for the injectors and went ahead

to tune the whole thing. Once you change the settings afterwards to the 'right' settings

does that mean the injector table will be leaner across the board?

BHDave - can you please check if that 0.2ms is correct? Because i'm running the nismo 740's on my

sr and the settings were already wrong.... but using the calculations shouldn't the lag time be 0.08?

50% - 0.08ms (0.66-0.58).

thanks for the replies guys.

Does this mean my lag time of 0.40ms is shithouse, and should be 0.13ms (0.71- 0.58)?

Yeah, I'm not sure it would run properly with that much...

Put your lag time to +0.12 dude.

As for the trim % on each injector I wouldnt touch those unless you are absolutely sure he didnt apply the trim straight to the INJ correction map [ which is very easy to do in datalogit ].

BHDave - can you please check if that 0.2ms is correct? Because i'm running the nismo 740's on my

sr and the settings were already wrong.... but using the calculations shouldn't the lag time be 0.08?

50% - 0.08ms (0.66-0.58).

I'll try and remember to check tonight.

If the lag times that you have listed are corrent then you will be right. I just seem to remember .02 for some reason. Either way if you have a higher number and the car has been tuned with those setting s in already then there shouldn't be a problem.

ok thanks BHDave..

I did some searching...and found these

nismo injectors

555cc lag time - 0.71ms

740cc lag time - 0.66ms

from pfc manual

ecr33 rb25det

370cc lag time - 0.528ms

sr20det

370cc lag time - 0.58ms

for example if the figures were wrong, say proper was 50% - 0.08ms and 50% - 0.20ms was put in,

will that make the idle or the rest of the map extra rich?

I checked my apex chart and it shows the nissan 370's as .64, the 550's at about .67 and the 740's at .66

So thats where my .02 came from.

Either way, if it's tuned right then a slight difference in lag time will make little difference as lag is added to the open time to get a certain amount of fuel.

From my basic understanding of the whole thing (and i could be wrong here)

Say for example that the engine needs a certain amount of fuel to acheive correct a/f ratios, then the ecu triggers the injector for a set time (lag time) plus the user (or tuner) entered value of say 3.00ms for an example.

With stock injectors it will provide power to the injector (according to my info anyway) for 3.64ms.

chuck in a set of 740's (double the size, makes it easy) the injector needs to be powered up for .64ms (stock lag) plus difference in lag (.02) plus 1.5ms (due to the injector being double the size not considering all the fluid dynamics and stuff involved) so total powered time will be 2.16ms.

If you have a different lag time (say .12) with the same 740cc injectors, to get the same amount of fuel in you will have .64 + .12 + 1.4ms (user/tuner entered) for a total powered time of 2.16ms if you get my drift.

The only thing that i'm missing is the point in time when the injector gets powered up as i think that will make a difference, particularly when you are talking about such small open times, what i'm getting at is if you input a really big lag time will the injector be powered up earlier than with a small lag time or is the opening time fixed and the closing time altered? If it opens too early is the fuel hitting the back of the valve rather than getting pulled/puhed into the cylinder?

Edited by BHDave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...