Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If the advise i am giving does not apply to your application please ignore it. Its fair to say that a large percentage of people on this forum would have payed decent money for there car. some of these people might be interested in spending a bit more money and install a good looking air box assy. All i am doing is showing people that there is a couple of options. If PVC pipe is for you, thats o.k. If you want to pay $300 for a K&N CAI, thats all good too, if you want the CAI we make for $180, thats great also. The forum is in place so people can ask questions and get ideas. Not to smash someone as soon as they advise someone on how they would do it and then have everyone whinge about thats too expensive, If your not willing to spend that money on your car thats your business, i dont think it is right that you people get on here and say that it is ridiculose to spend that kind of money. Im shore the Police down here would pay less attention to an airbox that looks like it has been fabricated well and looks neat rather than some pvc piping.

Berzerkr32

I happen to want to hear this information, not everyone on here has a $17,000 car, some are track cars put together on a shoe string, with high damage risk and they would rather replace a piece of 50c pvc than a $300 bling bit, your comments are valid but not for all of us.

the performance loss of having the piping across the top of the raiator is minimal as the air is travelling at a high speed. and if you have ever put your hand on that pipe after giving the car a good flogging you will find that it isn't that hot. the piping is about 2 inches from the radiator. you could argue the fact that the stock piping route intercoolers have their 'cold' pipe running right next to the 'hot' pipe for a distance so it would be heating up the cold pipe too. and it runs back over the exhaust manifold so there would be some heat radiating from there too.

Edited by mad082
the performance loss of having the piping across the top of the raiator is minimal as the air is travelling at a high speed. and if you have ever put your hand on that pipe after giving the car a good flogging you will find that it isn't that hot. the piping is about 2 inches from the radiator. you could argue the fact that the stock piping route intercoolers have their 'cold' pipe running right next to the 'hot' pipe for a distance so it would be heating up the cold pipe too. and it runs back over the exhaust manifold so there would be some heat radiating from there too.

The best ones i've seen run the outlet pipe from the cooler underneath the cooler itself and then back up on the passenger side.

Adrian

yeah but they are gennerally a fair bit more expensive, again, for not much more power. and if setup wrong they are worse. you have to make sure that the long pipe is from the turbo to the cooler, and the short pipe is going to the throttle body.

Edited by mad082

Since the topic of this thread is to try and find the best possible CAI system, has anyone modified the stock R33/R34 air box to allow maximum air induction??? Please post your pics or links

Cheers

Does anyone know the legal side of using a POD in NSW??? is it still a defect if its partitioned/boxed???

Cheers

well as far as the aftermaket air box concern, it's illegal to installed. I have just got ping for a POD with fully enclosure with al. sheet metal with internal lining. th induction noise is quiter than the stock but the police office and the EPA guy told me that anything that is not stock is illegal! :thumbsup:

yeah but they are gennerally a fair bit more expensive, again, for not much more power. and if setup wrong they are worse. you have to make sure that the long pipe is from the turbo to the cooler, and the short pipe is going to the throttle body.

Hi QRI05E, this is a sample on what a DIY CAI will look like. It block out the heat and get the job done with min cost.

Tupperware CAI box

Hahah nice one Trex, you can even keep your lunch in the engine bay now to keep it warm :D hahaha thats pretty clever... some of the pics make the CAI look like a stock filter box... thanks for that!

Cheers

Ha Ha...love it. Got HKS?...Go with the matching Tupperware

that looks more like an oil catch can to match an exedy clutch.

as for the template, are you just wanting a partition or a box system? if you are just wanting a partition, just get some thich cardboard and make one up. its not hard. just have to cut out 2 gaps for the intake pipes, and any for the intercooler pipes.

Edited by mad082

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...