Jump to content
SAU Community

Traction problems on 300+ 4wkw GTRs?

akira

By akira,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Munro Experienced

Munro

Posted
Posted

they will either wheelspin or bog down.Wheel spin is faster as long as it's not for too long.the attessa will transfer torque to the front after rear has lost traction.Even GTRs with 250-270rwkw will break traction if your not weak.Over 300rkwk & you need more torque at the front straight away.The R34 has more front bias than the R33 but even they need a torque split controller of some type to be qucik off the line.at the drags Nittos are the only way to go.My race car needs a minimum of 7500rpm or it bogs.The stocky R34 needs at least 6500rpm.With a small capacity turbocharged engine there is no perfect hook up like a V8 can achieve.You just have to find the best compromise & give it heaps.

Be prepared to break stuff before you get it just right.If you dont like holding the limiter & sidestepping the clutch - forget about launching a GTR properly.

300rwkw is not that big power for a GTR.Be great fun in a GTSt though!

akira Rising Star

akira

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Munro,

that was exactly the type of info I was after. thank you very much for sharing info with us.

BTW: have you used nitto tyres on the track or the street?

how do they perform? I have a set coming out with my car and was wondering if they could be used for track days as well as street/strip duties?

thanks again

akira:)

Munro Experienced

Munro

Posted
Posted

Nittos are for Drag racing.i think the japs use them on the street, but I haven't 'cause I dont want to wear them out.Nittos do not have the sidewall constuction to be used on the track(circuit), I would recommend Bridgestone RE540s they are awesome & can be used on the street as well, probably ok at the drags too up to a certain power level - after 300rwkw Nittos are the best hands down.If you can only have one set for all purposes go for the RE540s, if you can afford a 2nd set Nittos will improve your 1/4 times no end.They are a bit sensitive to contaminants such as oil, coolant,road grime etc so I would keep the Nittos just for the drags & use RE540s for street/circuit. 1/10th on your 60' time equates to 3/10th at the traps & the Nittos should give at least a 2-3/10th advantage on the 60' time.Well worth the investment.

Have fun - enjoy your GTR.

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted

Munro,

I am getting some Nitto's for my GTS-t next week, how much do you need to warm them up before launching. I have heard conflicting reports from a huge burnout, to practically nothing. Plus what tyre pressure would your recommend?

See'ya:burnout:

Metallica Newbie

Metallica

Posted
Posted

Akira- Can you tell us what GTR your getting r33-r34?? and how much are you importing it for?? total cost involved?? im looking desperately.. and have found that a RZ is starting to look attractive cause the GTR r33 (my fav) is a bit too much when compared.. :(

any info would be cool..

thanks mate..

d

Munro Experienced

Munro

Posted
Posted

Awwwh.Get rid of that volkswagon please!!!

Well when in Rome..... Every Jap video of drags that I have seen shows huge burnouts on Nittos to get them hot.

On the US mustang website they state that they must be

HOT,HOT,HOT. They are not a normal street tyre at all.Normal street tyres do not require big burnouts but Nittos do.

I have only been using 2nd gear on the burnout but from now on

I will be using 3rd & heaps of revs to get em boiling before the launch.Besides it's more fun & the compound will go off before you wear them out anyway.

I have found 12 psi about right but I run 15psi in the front.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Duncan
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Duncan · Posted

      Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...