Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i dynoed my 33 gtst today and got 207.2 hp @150kph and 837nm @130kph ,@9 psi

Mods are fmic ,safc,pod filter

Also found out that the exhuast is stuffed cause when dynod at 11psi it produced 203hp so i need to get a 3inch and i should be able to get 220hp at 12psi.

Anyone else got a read out with the same mods???Is this a good read out???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12104-dynod-my-33gtst-auto/
Share on other sites

yeah... more to the effort than the actual amount!

Did you wind the boost to 9psi ?

cause one you do the zorst... you should have 9psi without dialing in anymore.

Just cause it's more flowing and the turb's won't be spinning as hard due to less restrictive exhaust.

Running more boost on a restrictive exhaust will have the negative effect you noted.

make sure it's turbo back though. the most important part in my opinion is the dump pipe. Allows the turb's to spin way more freely.

I dynoed it at ATS ,Yeah i sounded pretty low to but its a auto and theres more off a loss through the drivetrain then a manual.Does anybody no the exact amount of power u lose through the drive train??Also i just spoke to ats and they said they can make a 3inch exhaust mandrel bent from turbo back tig welded with hi flow cat +muffler for $1100.And it should go heaps better ,i looked at the cat and u cant even see through it !!also the middle muffler has broken up .Most skyline's run rich yet mine was leaning out due to poor airflow .If i can put done 250hp when im finished with more boost and a good tune ill be happy,if not then ill have to just put a microtech and T04.lol

I got my car dyno'd this week and it reached a max of 175.1hp.

The line on the graph stoped at 5500rpm, I cant remember what run this was, but the car was hitting boost cut all the time.

I'll try and attach a scanned image of it when I go to gf place later so someone can explain if my car is running ok or not.

user posted image

Mark

spoke to him again and he explained that the calabration on the a/f sensor was out cause i have a 6inch dump pipe and two much of the exhaust gas gets around it???And that the standard settings where even leaner ??i dont no but he did tune it for cruising more than power ,And they have been working on turbo cars for like 20years .Ill see how it is after the exhaust is on and post the dyno sheet up.Also about the torque i think its traction too cause i thought 837nm is alot of torque for any low mod car.

link to ATS http://www.turbonetics.com.au

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...