Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now for some of you this may seem like a pretty easy question, but I would honestly like to know..

If I was serious about the performance of my R33 GTS25t, then would I stick with my RB25DET, or would it be better to step up to a DETT with a R34 NEO head?

If so what advantages will I see behind doing this?

Will it increase power? or what will it do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121878-can-anyone-offer-some-advice/
Share on other sites

I havn't been into this long myself im no expert but Ive asked some questions kinda the same so here goes:-

mostly depends on your budget and what kind of power your want to end up with, see with a GTST unlike GTR your rear wheel drive and when you start heading over 300kw at the rear wheels your gonna start having traction issues and problems keeping the car on the road and you'll go through alot of tyres unless you upgrade suspension and chuck on some real wide tyres like 9/9.5/10 inch wide wheels,anyway besides that theres a few engine options here-

Go with a few light mods like front mount intercooler,aftermarket ECU like Apexi Power FC,Aftermarket Injectors,High flow your stock turbo,boost controller,3 inch split front dump pipe and high flow cat and 3 inch cat back exhaust-ive probably forgot something important but this should/could get you to maybe 220-250kw? and your probably looking at for this after paying the labour and tuning about $4500-$5000

or you want more power-

Get your Rb25DET rebuilt with heavy duty internals on top of most of what was said above and add a larger aftermarket turbo like a HKS30-- and aftermarket cams etc wider exhaust like 3.5 inch and should/could get you to 300/350kw and cost about$10000-up plus the cost of wider wheels and suspension bigger brakes etc...

or more power?!

You could drop in an Rb26DEtt from a GTR and do all the equivelent to that theres even kits to stroke them to 2.8 litre and put on two bigger aftermarket turbos or replace the two with one HUGE arse turbo but to drop a rb26dett in a gtst you need a new loom and sump plus conversion plate to change from all wheel to rear wheel drive and Im not even going to hazard a guess at what that'd cost

But what most GTST guys who are serious about getting the most outa these cars and even some GTR owners are doing are building or getting built for them hybrid engines-RB25DET/RB30DET or RB26DETT/RB30DET thats the head off a skyline and the bottom end from a VL calais or older skyline bolted together with heavy duty internals and big turbos and from what Im told these 3 litre engines are getting unbeleivable kilowat and torque but one of these engines will end up costing about $20000, theres a guy on here selling one rated at 1200hp plus nitrous kit etc... for $12000 if your interested

anyway I hope Ive helped and not just confused you further, like I said Im no expert so dont take me word for word Im just going on what Ive learnt from this forum -good luck >_<

Finally some information that I can use.. yes that is what i was after, and no it didnt confuse me...

So your saying that with my budget, I should stick with a RB25DET and just do the basic bolt on's.. Turbo, intercooler, and ECU, Exhaust.. and that should bring me close to me target of 250rwKw..

Labour doesnt mean much to me, cos i can do it all my self, but the Tuning i need someone to look at, so if anyone is in Adelaide and knows of someone in the field of Turbo Tuning that is any good. let me know.

PS where is the best place to get Skyline Mods from? is there anywhere in Adelaide? or worth branching out to NSW or Vic?

Have a look in the SA section of the forums - plenty of answers there.

Or use the search function >_<

But in regards to your first post, 25DETT - no point!

by thetime you t/t your 25 - may was well have bought a 26DETT and put it in :)

PS where is the best place to get Skyline Mods from? is there anywhere in Adelaide? or worth branching out to NSW or Vic?

Im in melbourne so I can't help with shop front retailers and workshops but I but most of my new parts through buisness traders on this forum or Ive found www.nengun.com (theres usually a link at the top of the forum) to be the cheapest and theyve got a huge range, If your going to get your stock turbo high flowed, thats having the internals replaced with garret parts and bringing it up to a 400hp turbo and keeping about the same spool time then rip it off and send it to CGC in NSW theyll do it for under 2g and usaually takes em bout 2-3days

at this point i am unsure of my budget, i am still searching for a R33 GTS25t. My mate is heading over to Jap in a couple of weeks and i will know then how much i will have to spend. But i am hoping to get an R33 GTS25t to around 250 kw's for upto $25,000

at this point i am unsure of my budget, i am still searching for a R33 GTS25t. My mate is heading over to Jap in a couple of weeks and i will know then how much i will have to spend. But i am hoping to get an R33 GTS25t to around 250 kw's for upto $25,000

25,000 though for 250rwkw...

hardly

you need a max of around 10k depending on what you have already etc

25,000 though for 250rwkw...

hardly

you need a max of around 10k depending on what you have already etc

So your saying I need about 10,000 to be able to achieve 250 rwKw?

Cos that is do able. Just needed to know a rough idea. Still not sure what way i wanna go,

Anyone know the advantages behind RB30 bottom end and a RB25DET head? and no one has told me if a NEO head is worth the trouble?

Including the cost of the vehicle perhaps?

Yeah that is what I thought too, but i still have very little idea of the cost of line parts and mods.

But I think enough people have told me that it is possible to do with that kinda money, but how much does a low k'd series 2 or 3 R33 cost? looking for a rough price. R33 GTS-25t Series 2 or 3 pref under 80,000k

Anyone know the advantages behind RB30 bottom end and a RB25DET head? and no one has told me if a NEO head is worth the trouble?

If your gonna go rb30 better of with the rb26 head, havn't heard of any advantages with a neo head I dont think theres alot of difference-as for more rb30 info theres a f***in HUGE thread just go the search button and put in rb30 conversion and read read read!

Edited by BOVed

but how much does a low k'd series 2 or 3 R33 cost? looking for a rough price. R33 GTS-25t Series 2 or 3 pref under 80,000k

local or import? mods or stock? black, white, burgundy or silver? :P lol! just kidding

www.allblitz.com.au I think thats it? check them out and Im sure theres more than a few importers on this forum

but take my advice take your time man, I just WANTED!!!! a line bad and rushed into it and bought like the second one I looked at and had a few problems allready had the car just over 7 months!

if I could go back I think Id probably try and find one that looked good with a f***ed engine and buy the rb26/30 thats being sold and dump that in, instant beast!

Edited by BOVed
but how much does a low k'd series 2 or 3 R33 cost? looking for a rough price. R33 GTS-25t Series 2 or 3 pref under 80,000k

local or import?

Import or local i dont care.

mods or stock?

Pref stock.

black, white, burgundy or silver?

Colour dont matter.

www.allblitz.com.au I think thats it? check them out and Im sure theres more than a few importers on this forum

but take my advice take your time man, I just WANTED!!!! a line bad and rushed into it and bought like the second one I looked at and had a few problems allready had the car just over 7 months!

Yeah I am trying to get as uch info as i can on what i want now, cos i will be finished my other car just before x mas, so i will be looking around then. but till then, i will prolly drive you all mad with stuid questions, till i know all the ins and outs of what i want.

if I could go back I think Id probably try and find one that looked good with a f***ed engine and buy the rb26/30 thats being sold and dump that in, instant beast!

Yep I am thinking the same too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...