Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest a31rb25

could be, engine is an RB25, not like that should make too much difference, and the front bar is an autech copy. found i can get a well constructed & very good quality custom kit with end tanks (like HPI kits) for a good price, so thought i might pursue that option.

Edited by a31rb25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122389-oil-coolers/#findComment-2260714
Share on other sites

i installed a R32 GTST GREX 10 row cooler kit. Its mint. It doesnt have remote filter or thermostat but I dont think the oil filter position is that difficult to get to on the RB20. I orignally installed the cooler where the Aircon Receiver Dryer was as I didnt want to hit the cooler when drifting, but Ive since had to relocate it to the wheel arch as I put my aircon back in. You can just see it here near the drivers side headlight.

http://www.sido-takushi.com/events/collie/...04/DSC08669.jpg

http://www.sido-takushi.com/events/collie/...04/DSC08725.jpg (sexy man!)

I purchased extra braided line so that I could put the cooler where I wanted though. Total cost $800 all brand new. Definately worth it. I also have a HKS oil pressure guage and soon a HKS temp gauge on the spin on adaptor.

JK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122389-oil-coolers/#findComment-2265552
Share on other sites

I will be installing my new Just Jap 25 row oil cooler into the front guard position, which seems to be the most common...

I have a stock front bar, so here's hoping all goes well and I will update with pics and possibly a tech article if it's called for??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122389-oil-coolers/#findComment-2284229
Share on other sites

i installed a R32 GTST GREX 10 row cooler kit. Its mint. It doesnt have remote filter or thermostat but I dont think the oil filter position is that difficult to get to on the RB20. I orignally installed the cooler where the Aircon Receiver Dryer was as I didnt want to hit the cooler when drifting, but Ive since had to relocate it to the wheel arch as I put my aircon back in. You can just see it here near the drivers side headlight.

http://www.sido-takushi.com/events/collie/...04/DSC08669.jpg

http://www.sido-takushi.com/events/collie/...04/DSC08725.jpg (sexy man!)

I purchased extra braided line so that I could put the cooler where I wanted though. Total cost $800 all brand new. Definately worth it. I also have a HKS oil pressure guage and soon a HKS temp gauge on the spin on adaptor.

JK

Yeh Brand name for sure. Going to get a full kit off yahoo (EVENTUALLY) ~$700

ie: http://page14.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s28157272

Edit: Does include thermostat. :P

Edited by konect
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122389-oil-coolers/#findComment-2284470
Share on other sites

you cant use a thermostat on the just jap ones. Correct ?

All oil coolers can use a thermostat... You simply need to purchase one if it's not supplied. All it really is, is a temp sensor and a couple of valves. If temp = x or >x degrees then open (varies on temp of oil to allow y amount of flow through to the cooler), If temp = <x degrees then bypass cooler (NOTE: this is not a 100% bypass cooler as usually somewhere in the region of 90% of the oil bypasses the cooler, but the remaining percentage flows to the cooler to keep total system pressure)... But anywho... answer is No, not correct. Cut braided lines insert thermostat (in-line) and enjoy keeping your oil at operating temps. :cool:

Edited by QUIKBLADE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122389-oil-coolers/#findComment-2289501
Share on other sites

All oil coolers can use a thermostat... You simply need to purchase one if it's not supplied. All it really is, is a temp sensor and a couple of valves. If temp = x or >x degrees then open (varies on temp of oil to allow y amount of flow through to the cooler), If temp = <x degrees then bypass cooler (NOTE: this is not a 100% bypass cooler as usually somewhere in the region of 90% of the oil bypasses the cooler, but the remaining percentage flows to the cooler to keep total system pressure)... But anywho... answer is No, not correct. Cut braided lines insert thermostat (in-line) and enjoy keeping your oil at operating temps. :laugh:

According to Gr33dy on here that sells them they cannot use thermostats :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122389-oil-coolers/#findComment-2289542
Share on other sites

According to Gr33dy on here that sells them they cannot use thermostats :(

Hmm, I read his post (for sale Oil Coolers thread), and he says that they are "not setup for use with thermostat".

Basically sounds like to me, that you will need to purchase a thermostat from another source and figure out how to fit it yourself if you want to use one... ??? :) I will still be fitting mine up with a thermostat and I will even take a pic when it works. :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122389-oil-coolers/#findComment-2290132
Share on other sites

Hmm, I read his post (for sale Oil Coolers thread), and he says that they are "not setup for use with thermostat".

Basically sounds like to me, that you will need to purchase a thermostat from another source and figure out how to fit it yourself if you want to use one... ??? :) I will still be fitting mine up with a thermostat and I will even take a pic when it works. :(

*Mr Burns fingers* Excellent....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122389-oil-coolers/#findComment-2290379
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...