Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Nice! I fixed my PFC issue too :( Was a blown fuse. Cant wait to get mine tuned at hittman and see what I get :)

Can I ask what mods you currently have to get what you got? PM me if you dont want to say publicly and Was it a power tune or a complete?

No worries mate my mods are:

1995 RB25DET

Standard Turbo

R34 GTT Intercooler

Adj Exhaust Cam gear (set at 3 1/2 deg ret)

CES 3" split dump pipe

Magic cat

Custom 3" into 2 x 2 1/2" exhaust (very similar to Apexi N1 Dual muffler)

GTR Fuel pump

Apexi Power Intake Pod filter (with custom cold air partition)

NGK Iridium spark plugs

hi ryno

i would be interested in talking more about your tune. max power is only one aspect of an ecu tune. theres lots more to be gained in the midrange and the important parts of a tune

Hey Paul,

I am rather fussy with my car, so I researched tuners for a while before I decided to go to Hitman, and I must say he didn't disappoint.

He spent about the same time tuning the cars economy, as he did max power. In fact the max power was never much of a drama, as the first run (with the standard Power FC maps) made 183 kw. I'm very happy with the tune, the car is now smoother than it has ever been, has more power, and uses less fuel. Perfect!

Ryno

holly s##t my car is doing the exact same thing so you say it was a earth will it be the sams if i run all new earths. sorry to hijack your topic.

Hey mate,

It sounds like a few people have been having this problem - here are the places to start looking:

1. Check all fuses - twice!

2. Wire in a direct 12v from the battery to the battery input on the ECU (pin 58)

3. Check earth wires (pins 60 and 50)

4. If it's still not working start checking all the other wires, for a break or something connected where it shouldn't be.

Hope that helps

Edited by Ryno
Hey mate,

It sounds like a few people have been having this problem - here are the places to start looking:

1. Check all fuses - twice!

2. Wire in a direct 12v from the battery to the battery input on the ECU (pin 58)

3. Check earth wires (pins 60 and 50)

4. If it's still not working start checking all the other wires, for a break or something connected where it shouldn't be.

Hope that helps

i found the problem it was one of the relays that is up by the computer plug was missing. thats strange that it would run on the std comp but not the power fc. its running beta than ever even with std tune.

i found the problem it was one of the relays that is up by the computer plug was missing. thats strange that it would run on the std comp but not the power fc. its running beta than ever even with std tune.

That's good to hear mate,

It's amazing how tolerant the standard computer is to blown fuses, broken wires and missing relays! But it can make plugging in the Power FC a nightmare. I'm just glad it's all up and running now, if I never have to solder a wire in my car again, I'll be a happy man.

Good to here I have a r32 with a rb25 in it as well but with the stock comp in it still, fingers crossed I hope the power fc works in it.

buy the way where is (Hitman) located also that power in a r32 should just do a 12 sec ET.

Edited by RB SANDY
Good to here I have a r32 with a rb25 in it as well but with the stock comp in it still, fingers crossed I hope the power fc works in it.

buy the way where is (Hitman) located also that power in a r32 should just do a 12 sec ET.

Hitman is located in Penrith, he has a web site (www.hitman.hm) though it appears to be down at the moment. His contact number is: 0417259391

I have done a rb25 swap the Hicas needs a speed signal. my car does not have the speed limiter it's bean tested a few times LOL and my Hicas light turns on and off when it fells like will the Hicas still work or should I put a lock bar on it I don’t want the speed limiter.

I have done a rb25 swap the Hicas needs a speed signal. my car does not have the speed limiter it's bean tested a few times LOL and my Hicas light turns on and off when it fells like will the Hicas still work or should I put a lock bar on it I don’t want the speed limiter.

I had the same trouble with my car... I decided to remove the HICAS and install a lock bar. By doing so you pull about 20 kg of weight off the car, and then I fitted a R33 power steering pump.

You can disable the HICAS (so you don't get that light coming on) by disconnecting the smaller of the two plugs that go into the HICAS control unit - which is in the boot, beside the rear speaker amplifier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
    • Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
    • but deep down inside once you Skyline, you always Skyline
×
×
  • Create New...