Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i also just noticed that you said its a rb30et bottom end, if thats true then having a turbo bottom end with that head i possibly think could be worse than a bog stock rb20, i know its a big call but i think you could've wasted the little money you spent!

They have different compression pistons.

cheers, andrew!

Rb30et is 7:8:1 and rb30e is 9:0:1, he said he didn't touch the bottom end so that leads me to believe he is going to be a tad dissappointed with what he has!

the rb30 et block has oil squirters to cool the pistons.. the rb30 e does not.

Where did you hear this culater?

I've seen both a turbo and n/a block and they were identical apart from the pistons.

I bought the n/a one sitting next to it for $150.

I remember it was mentioned some time ago by some one who confused the bore/rod squirters or what ever they are called with the piston crown oil squirters.

The bore/rod squirters squirt oil on to the load side of the bore.

Not sure of the exact terminology.

the rb20 head has a smaller chamber but has been cc d it also has the turbo et bottem end so it should not be 7.8.1 it should work out around the 8.5 -9.0.1 witch should be great just gotta finish painting my bay then motor goes in and car goes down to boostworks

the rb20 head has a smaller chamber but has been cc d it also has the turbo et bottem end so it should not be 7.8.1 it should work out around the 8.5 -9.0.1 witch should be great just gotta finish painting my bay then motor goes in and car goes down to boostworks

: >_< I'm afraid you've got it round the wrong way buddy, having the turbo bottom end with the turbo pistons will lower your compression, not raise it. I'd be guessing somewhere round the 7:1 mark which should be interesting to say the least!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...