Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i also just noticed that you said its a rb30et bottom end, if thats true then having a turbo bottom end with that head i possibly think could be worse than a bog stock rb20, i know its a big call but i think you could've wasted the little money you spent!

They have different compression pistons.

cheers, andrew!

Rb30et is 7:8:1 and rb30e is 9:0:1, he said he didn't touch the bottom end so that leads me to believe he is going to be a tad dissappointed with what he has!

the rb30 et block has oil squirters to cool the pistons.. the rb30 e does not.

Where did you hear this culater?

I've seen both a turbo and n/a block and they were identical apart from the pistons.

I bought the n/a one sitting next to it for $150.

I remember it was mentioned some time ago by some one who confused the bore/rod squirters or what ever they are called with the piston crown oil squirters.

The bore/rod squirters squirt oil on to the load side of the bore.

Not sure of the exact terminology.

the rb20 head has a smaller chamber but has been cc d it also has the turbo et bottem end so it should not be 7.8.1 it should work out around the 8.5 -9.0.1 witch should be great just gotta finish painting my bay then motor goes in and car goes down to boostworks

the rb20 head has a smaller chamber but has been cc d it also has the turbo et bottem end so it should not be 7.8.1 it should work out around the 8.5 -9.0.1 witch should be great just gotta finish painting my bay then motor goes in and car goes down to boostworks

: >_< I'm afraid you've got it round the wrong way buddy, having the turbo bottom end with the turbo pistons will lower your compression, not raise it. I'd be guessing somewhere round the 7:1 mark which should be interesting to say the least!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...