Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

take you stock bov off and and on the bottom of it there is a hole that constantly leaks boost, ther were some discussions about blocking it up with a screw and filing it off. But other than that keep the stockie, less problems with stalling and less attention from piggies...oink oink.. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-225902
Share on other sites

Thanx for the feed back guyz, and all the help.. I was also wondering how could i get the cooler sound happening in my car, the sound which is something like Vooooooooodduudududu, i hear em mostly on VL's.

BTW, inark as u said for the cruises, i would love to cum but most of the cruises here are in south western suburbs. im in northern suburbs and its prettie long way to get to the cruise meetings u have. if it was in city or somewhere close to the city, it would of been great!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-233404
Share on other sites

Originally posted by KDR33

BTW, inark as u said for the cruises, i would love to cum but most of the cruises here are in south western suburbs. im in northern suburbs and its prettie long way to get to the cruise meetings u have. if it was in city or somewhere close to the city, it would of been great!

damn right :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-233560
Share on other sites

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by DJ_L3ThAL

i was also told you can block the stock one up with a plate in the piping, makes  ahuge diff in power i was told, im going to try it this week

huge difference in power hey?? :bahaha: dont think so.

My car runs better with my stock bov on than when i had my blitz one on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-233818
Share on other sites

bovs... why not get some LEDs?

blocking that hole... hmmm i dont know much about that kind of stuff but common sense tells me that if nissan put a hole to release boost pressure im sure they did it for a reason...

im running "14" psi at the moment.... it peaks to 14psi @ 4200rpm then drops almost instantly down to a steady 10.44 by 6000rpm.

now im no mechanic, nor am i performance expert... but im guessing if that pressure drop is eleviated by plugging this hole up... my stock turbo is going to give in.

can someone clear this up for me? someone that actually KNOWS not someone that is guessing or thinks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-236370
Share on other sites

Originally posted by KDR33

Thanx for the feed back guyz, and all the help.. I was also wondering how could i get the cooler sound happening in my car, the sound which is something like Vooooooooodduudududu, i hear em mostly on VL's.  

BTW, inark as u said for the cruises, i would love to cum but most of the cruises here are in south western suburbs. im in northern suburbs and its prettie long way to get to the cruise meetings u have. if it was in city or somewhere close to the city, it would of been great!

That Vooooodudududud sound is your turbo backspinning. See when you close your throttle, your turbo is still spining creating excess compressed air in the intake manifold. Once this air cant compress anymore in the intake, it then the air moves backwards, (back through the intercooler, and out your airfilter.)while your turbo wheels are spinning backwards & forwards really quickly. thus creating that Vooooooouddududu sound :P

These noises sound f*%&n sick, and are relativley harmless on low boost (1BAR & under) but keep in mind nissan has provided the car factory with a BOV for a reason. Mainly to reduced turbo wear & provide Faster spool times between shifts/gears (because the turbo doesnt have to "re-spool" as much between shifts.

If i wear you (original person who wants to change BOV), i would purchase a more accurate "plumback" (You dont want attention from the cops, youl get enough just driving a skyline) BOV for further down the track like a G-ready. Stock BOV perform very average after the factory boost setting of 7-9 PSI as the spring tension on the factory BOV is set to open on 7-9PSI. Allthough it will still work after this setting you will find that boost will come on quicker with a aftermarket BOV (like gready) as it will not "leak" boost all the way to 15PSI. (unlike the factory, under 15PSI)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-239700
Share on other sites

I've got an old Blitz.

Originaly had it venting to atmo (trumpet and all). Car ran fine.

Now its plumbed back. Car still running fine. No noticeable improvements, just a tiny bit quieter.

I suspect I have a VERY STIFF spring. Even at 1.4-1.5 bar the bov will open with a loud woooosh then flutter after the initial piston opening up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12265-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-239747
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...