Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all thought you might be interested to know

My car was written off when a "prospective" buyer came around to look at my car cut a long story short

he trieed to steal it out of my drive way with me there and in so doing ripped off the passengers door on the neighbours fence, and then hit the power pole at the end of our drive way and then ran off.

Have not heard from the police if they caught the guy or not but it ended up being over $13,000 to fix it so they have written it off

any way just be careful when selling as some pricks don't want to do the right thing by ya

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123182-selling-your-car/
Share on other sites

Unfortunatly I rekon it is fairly common. You might not hear of it much but it is a fairly easy way to steal a car when you think about it.

Recently had a guy take my 180sx for a test drive and I was stupid enough to let him go by himself, came back with a blown heater hose, engine was hot as hell. Of course i made him give me cash to repair it, moral of the story though is, you can never be to careful.

Im guessing your car was insured mate? Hope 13K covered what you were after for it.

Did you get their driver's license details? Every time I've ever test driven a car, the seller has always either held onto my driver's license or copied my details down. I'm taking the "no testpilot" approach for my car. Same story as Ant selling his car.

Yeah, it's sad that you need to be so untrusting these days. I never let someone drive my car till a deposit has been taken and even then i'll go with them.

Never meet them at your house (cause then they know where to come back and steal it if they are that way inclined) meet in a public place like a public car park.

The taking of MDL details is a good one, i'll have to remember that.

I rather trade my car in and lose out on the money than see some f**ker try to steal it from me and thrash it.....already put too much time and effort (money as well), in trying to keep the car in top shape.......

I swear, I would hunt the f**ker down and give him the beating of his life - with a cro-bar too.......

Sorry to hear :D

Firsty why would anyone selling a car let someone drive it without them in the car....secondly why would anyone buying the car want to go for a drive by themselves :laugh: ? Always get their drivers licence details, never hand over the keys and if possible get them to sign a documents stating that if they stack it while driving it they own it.

Cases in point...selling my first performance car (manual turbo mx6) a guy rocked up wanting to take it for a test drive....asked for his licence which showed he only had an auto licence...errr I think I'll take you for a drive!!!

Brother in law was a selling a motorbike....guys rocks up in a vintage monaro...as he handed the keys to him, he said "you stack it you own it".....guy comes back 10mins later with ripped leathers and a bent bike so as per the agreement he handed the keys to his monaro over to my bro in law and he took the damaged bike.

He ran away?? Did he not turn up in another car?

Be careful meeting people at carparks etc as well. When I sold my GTR I always made sure I had at least one mate with me whenever someone looked at the car.. It's a bit unnerving when a car load of guys rock up and you are by yourself...

He ran away?? Did he not turn up in another car?

Be careful meeting people at carparks etc as well. When I sold my GTR I always made sure I had at least one mate with me whenever someone looked at the car.. It's a bit unnerving when a car load of guys rock up and you are by yourself...

This is true, though I came to look at your GTR by myself and I didn't even take it for a test drive. You can tell when people are truly "looking" at buying or just wasting your time....

This is true, though I came to look at your GTR by myself and I didn't even take it for a test drive. You can tell when people are truly "looking" at buying or just wasting your time....

I think I remember you... Out of curiosity for sh*ts and giggles what made you decide to not buy it? Price too high? Condition not good enough? Owner too dodgy looking??? :P

I think I remember you... Out of curiosity for sh*ts and giggles what made you decide to not buy it? Price too high? Condition not good enough? Owner too dodgy looking??? :O

All three :(

Nah it was the best GTR I looked at for sure. I bought a 32 GTR instead which had full engine mods (internals) which was the only clincher.....sold it about 3months later though as it turned out to have other issues... :P kicked myself then...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...