Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lighter Flywheel reduces turbo lag.

Heavier flywheel will increase lag.

Simply

Increasing the recipricating mass at the crank = slower engine response time and accelleration, but will increase decelleration time. (Heavier objects in motion take longer to stop)

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

took like 6 hours to mine in my 180sx as the bolts were bitches to get out.

Workshops can;t help it if a car has bolts that are overly tight or bent or burred and if it takes 6 hours it takes 6 hours, they need to charge for that 6 hours as their spending time on one job that stops them from working on another. There has to be more to the story than you saying.

took like 6 hours to mine in my 180sx as the bolts were bitches to get out.

Workshops can;t help it if a car has bolts that are overly tight or bent or burred and if it takes 6 hours it takes 6 hours, they need to charge for that 6 hours as their spending time on one job that stops them from working on another. There has to be more to the story than you saying.

Usually the only contributing factor towards taking too long on a clutch install has been friggin dicky exhausts. Some aftermarket manufacturers don't compensate for this kind of thing when they make their systems up. Other than that, over tight bolts?.....tell your mech to get a better impact gun or go to the gym to work on those girly arms. You can only tighten a bolt so far, and even a almost breaking point...a 1 meter breaker bar usually does the trick. RB, SR or CA gearbox should not take any longer than 45 mins to remove.....no excuses. 1 hour if you are doing it on stands.

just wanted to say i went to a well known workshop the other day to get a new clutch fitted and they charged me $1000 in labour!! I supplied the clutch, it was a straight in and out job.. y on earth it took 11+ hours is beyond me? also i had to fork out for a new gear boot that was fine 2 days before hand as i had it off doing some work..

I wont flame here.. pm me if you want to know

dude that is farked. :) i trained up our first year and with him and me doing one on a 33gtr drive in/drive out 2.5hrs :)

11hrs. hmmm welll thats just beyond me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...