Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use the Castrol Synthetic R 5w-30, will be switching to the Castrol EDGE 5w-30. Its the best oil i can get off the shelf in Broome, and i got my last bottle of synthetic R for $65. I recommend the Synthetic R, and the EDGE is supposed to be better.

Its a daily driver, just cruising no thrashing, done about 130,000 kms. Engine is in fine running order, going to be interesting when i open it up for a rebuild in another 15,000kms.

cheers

Evil

I've ran castrol 5w30 in the past, I found the motor used a little of it over the 5k period.

The usual motul 8100 5w40 it doesn't use a drop. I've also ran castrol 10w60 (oil pressure was simply too high) and Mobil 1 5w50 they too didn't use a drop.

I've found that Mobil and Castrol tend to go "used" prematurely - you start burning oil after 3000km because it's worn out.

Motul 8100 is brilliant stuff and always lasted me 5000km without using oil. Also, 10w60 is too thick for street use IMO.

It all depends on your driving and how many kays the cars done.

We stress too much about oil...

Grab what ever good oil you want it won't make or brake it.

I've never had issues with either mobil 1 or castrol not lasting 5000km's, I have however had issues with oil being used when its a 5W30 oil, 5w40 is fine and the lowest I would go.

personally i think the 10W60 is too thick. far better to choose a good synthetic ester 10W40. and yes i have used the castrol 10W60. personally i think motul chrono 300V 10W40 is excellent stuff, but I will know more after the next analysis.

Beer Baron,

Have you done an analysis on the castrol 10w60? I'm keen to see whats in it, being if castrol skimp on moly and what not. ;)

I did one on it (castrol formula R 10W60) about 3 years ago, but i'm not the sharpest tool with oils and ingredients etc. Just wanted to see how the engine was really. from memory my mechanic that read the results said it was ok, but nothing out of the ordinary. and i still think it's too thick. there is no need for a 60. maybe if you do track work and a too tight for an oil cooler running the really thick stuff may be a bandaid, but providing you keep oil temps in check with an oil cooler i think 10W40 is fine.

I'll post up the results on the chrono 300V. my instinct tells me the results will be good :laugh:

Castrol doesn't use Moly from what I've seen. No big deal though, Moly is overrated. 300V has the highest moly concentration I've seen.

Kinks, how do you know the oil is 'worn out'? Just by looking at the color, it doesn't tell you anything.

Natrually Cubes you wouldnt have used a drop of the Castrl 10W60 or the M1 5W50 because they are thick as :kiss:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Robertson was a Canadian inventor, and it absolutely reigns supreme here. 95% of our screws are Roberston. It's literally the only option you can buy off store shelves. What would it have lost out too? I believe it's also very popular in the US.  My reference to imperial was pointed to both NPT and BSP. 
    • No. BSP lost to the cultural/technical imperialism of living next to Trumpistan. Face it, Robertson screws were better and still pretty much lost out to the yank stuff. The Europeans hate the Brits and they don't use NPT. NPT is just as "imperial" as BSP is, being based on those useless inch thingos. Just done differently. 
    • I live in Quebec. Our license plate slogan is "Je me souviens" Translated is "We will remember" as a reminder to when England conquered us and that we must never forget what they did. Long story short, BSP is unheard of here due to being an English design. I'm surprised our nazi anti english government office the OQLF hasn't kicked in my door yet just talking about it, yet alone imperial anything.       
    • Thanks for that! I did a quick Google search looked up some of hydaulic stores and didn't see it listed on the website, I'll give them a ring. Also found out later that I can buy 2 oem bleeder bolts for 10 bux and come with the washer which I might do so I don't waste the money it costs in petrol to find 2 washers (already did that lol). The old copper washes look in good nick, I drove it after taking it off and putting it back on and didn't see any  Part number here for reference if anyone needs: 14053-42L0A  
×
×
  • Create New...