Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use the Castrol Synthetic R 5w-30, will be switching to the Castrol EDGE 5w-30. Its the best oil i can get off the shelf in Broome, and i got my last bottle of synthetic R for $65. I recommend the Synthetic R, and the EDGE is supposed to be better.

Its a daily driver, just cruising no thrashing, done about 130,000 kms. Engine is in fine running order, going to be interesting when i open it up for a rebuild in another 15,000kms.

cheers

Evil

I've ran castrol 5w30 in the past, I found the motor used a little of it over the 5k period.

The usual motul 8100 5w40 it doesn't use a drop. I've also ran castrol 10w60 (oil pressure was simply too high) and Mobil 1 5w50 they too didn't use a drop.

I've found that Mobil and Castrol tend to go "used" prematurely - you start burning oil after 3000km because it's worn out.

Motul 8100 is brilliant stuff and always lasted me 5000km without using oil. Also, 10w60 is too thick for street use IMO.

It all depends on your driving and how many kays the cars done.

We stress too much about oil...

Grab what ever good oil you want it won't make or brake it.

I've never had issues with either mobil 1 or castrol not lasting 5000km's, I have however had issues with oil being used when its a 5W30 oil, 5w40 is fine and the lowest I would go.

personally i think the 10W60 is too thick. far better to choose a good synthetic ester 10W40. and yes i have used the castrol 10W60. personally i think motul chrono 300V 10W40 is excellent stuff, but I will know more after the next analysis.

Beer Baron,

Have you done an analysis on the castrol 10w60? I'm keen to see whats in it, being if castrol skimp on moly and what not. ;)

I did one on it (castrol formula R 10W60) about 3 years ago, but i'm not the sharpest tool with oils and ingredients etc. Just wanted to see how the engine was really. from memory my mechanic that read the results said it was ok, but nothing out of the ordinary. and i still think it's too thick. there is no need for a 60. maybe if you do track work and a too tight for an oil cooler running the really thick stuff may be a bandaid, but providing you keep oil temps in check with an oil cooler i think 10W40 is fine.

I'll post up the results on the chrono 300V. my instinct tells me the results will be good :laugh:

Castrol doesn't use Moly from what I've seen. No big deal though, Moly is overrated. 300V has the highest moly concentration I've seen.

Kinks, how do you know the oil is 'worn out'? Just by looking at the color, it doesn't tell you anything.

Natrually Cubes you wouldnt have used a drop of the Castrl 10W60 or the M1 5W50 because they are thick as :kiss:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...