Jump to content
SAU Community

Making A Twin Plate Clutch Better To Drive

CruiseLiner
 Share

Recommended Posts

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted

Slightly off topic - but I converted my HKS solid centre twin plate to a sprung centre and what a difference!

Apart from the typical twin plate rattle when the clutch is depressed, you would think it's a stock clutch (almost).

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
Slightly off topic - but I converted my HKS solid centre twin plate to a sprung centre and what a difference!

Apart from the typical twin plate rattle when the clutch is depressed, you would think it's a stock clutch (almost).

and the cost of the conversion?

have a twin HKS at home, waiting to go in, solid centred.. but i can see it will need to be rebuild within a year :D

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i found my booster and master were both leakin so thats my problem, and the fact i got a slave with a bore of only 15mm and the stock gtr one is 19.05mm and nismo is 20.54mm so the change back to a gtr one will have a considerable difference compared to the pissy one i currently have and also when i fix the vacuum booster setup it should be like a new car to drive :D

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

yep u definately would have a longer fork by the looks of it.

longer fork means u need more travel so i doubt u could use a longer fork and a nismo slave together as the nismo wouldnt have enough travel to disengage it i'd imagine.

also my clutch is awesome now with the new gtr slave cylinder (3/4) and the vacuum booster is now fixed as someone had previously put the wrong size o-ring on to seal it and it was leaking.

i also adjusted the pushrod inside the vacuum booster abit longer to gain more travel on the slave :)

feels beautiful to drive now and it even rattles alot less which is a benefit :D

thanks for all the info peoplz

Brad

Edited by CruiseLiner
  • 4 months later...
sigsputnik Mentor

sigsputnik

Posted
Posted

aha, happy i found this thread. so just to confirm:

1. there should be a difference in clutch feel when the car is off/on - harder off, easier on?

2. a larger slave (like the nismo slave) will make the clutch softer?

cheers fellas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...