Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are youre thoughts on this? am looking into pricing of lambo style door hinges for my S1 stagea.

I have put them on a mates S15 (see saikoogarage.com, and check out PROJECTS), and they look horn. If they can lift the s15 doors no worries, the stageas li'l front doors should be easy. You can get universal hinges, and if need be adapt them to suit.

I figure it will be something different. I mean, stageas are rarer than most, so one with lambo doors aint gonna be a common sight. It was either going to be lambo fronts, or suicide rears... and due to $$$ constraints - lambo wins out, being a simple bolt on.

Will try and do some photoshopping to see what its gonna look like, but yeah.

What are your thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123626-installing-lsds-on-my-s1/
Share on other sites

yeah i saw that - the gold one with the honda tail-lights and all that? but yeah i figure it would be nice and different.

Just organised the rest of the nismo kit with chris $800, plus $500 paint + fit,

getting the wang off alex $100ish

the soarer-style cat-back split exhaust, no-name brand$600

SK's suspension to lower it $1800ish

The kit is gonna be about $1000 i think...

so about $5k and she's done. Already got the ICE installed.

Will be the nice cruisy show car... Got the 31 GTS for when i feel like doin something stupid.

suicide the rear doors instead... lambo doors on sedans look like arse with a pinch of smelly feet.

hahahah lambo doors look poxy as unless u actually got a lambo.

seen a supra the other day with some and damn they are shithouse :laugh:

f**k the doors, make it faster instead! turbo or doors hmm i know what i'd choose :)

everyones jumping on the showpony bandwagon as of late, how about p-e-r-f-o-r-m-a-n-c-e ;)

anyone for neons????? ;)

each to their own i suppose ;)

Edited by CruiseLiner

C'mon Brad you know you want to pimp it!

gallery_8679_1105_51118.jpg

Should I cancel your nomination to Ozzie "Pimp My Ride"??? Hosted be Glen Ridge of course...

Each to there own indeed, if it is what you want then you should do it for sure.

Cheers

Luke

hahahah lambo doors look poxy as unless u actually got a lambo.

everyones jumping on the showpony bandwagon as of late, how about p-e-r-f-o-r-m-a-n-c-e :D

Ive seen a set on a R33 coupe - looked awesome.

anyway - Im not one to go on a showponyexpress ride, my Stagea is a stealth-wagon alllll the way. hell, Id love to paint the bonnet and roof Pand black, but then it wouldnt be a stealth / sleeper look would it?! Same reason why I went for R34GTT 17's, keep it looking stock.

Remember, its whats on the insides that counts! :(

:wub:

I reckon if you like it, do it!! ... id prefer performance but respect lambo doors!

modifying cars is anything you want it to be performance, looks, ICE ... we all have our preferances im sure you would hate some of my ideas but thats what i like about it ..thats the point to modifying your car other wise we may as well just go buy a white Commonwhore

I reckon you would prob be one of only a very very select few with a Stagea AND lambo doors DAMN!!! hahhaha guaranteed recognition!!!

just my 2cents

Lee

Edited by STAGE-A

do lambo doors on the front, then suicide lambo doors on the rear. would look the shit then.

while you're at it, have the boot split open like a tailgate and lifting only the rear window. split your bonnet down the middle to open sideways.

do lambo doors on the front, then suicide lambo doors on the rear. would look the shit then.

yah, do that.

i wouldnt do anything to the doors, but just fronts is a bit lacking.. has to be fronts and rears

Edited by jasevr4

meh id figured that theres no point working a 97rs4 performance wise, better bang for your buck in a 260. so i figure ill just dress it up. hmmm i dont know about neaons though. maybe for shows, but thatd be it.

I just want to end up with something unique. You can put all your money under the bonnet of a stagea, but as soon as it comes to cornering or braking, you lose, its too heavy.

like i said, i have a 31gts for when im feelin the need for speed.

but as soon as it comes to cornering or braking, you lose, its too heavy.

like i said, i have a 31gts for when im feelin the need for speed.

they aint that bad thru the twisties, pretty fast and stable with the awd. with 200awkw the Stagea 'could' be a Hills weapon.

nice - R31.... yum

yeah but if you put the same money into something more nimble, much better results. like in the VR4 thread - you wouldnt buy a stagea to do up for hill climbs, it not an economical option.

Now the R31 though... second hand parts blaster. Has S13 steerring and control arms etc with second hand tein s13 coilovers, no interior, stainless spaghetti manifold, Blown VL turbo that is waiting for a highflow, in-tank bosch pump, 444cc injectors, fmic with a busted core waiting for replacement, turbo back 3". "needs work" lol. 5spd is smooth as. LSD. whole car cost me $2k, so i think i did well. just for a drift pig.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...