Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just found what id like to think is a bargain. Its an r32 gtst, manual with an RB25DET standard. It only jumped off the boat a couple of days ago and after taking it for a drive in "off the boat condition" it drove and sounded quite good. It has just over 100 000km and had the timing belt replaced. Also many scratches and a couple of dents that are promised to be fixed up. I wont tell you the price offered but its similar to what it costs if you import a normal r32 gtst through prestige.

Is there anything i should look out for as at that price their is a good chance something is wrong with it. Its in Melb and is being sold through a compliancer/importer. Any info would be great! including what the rb25 spec has over the rb20 (diff suspension etc...) Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1237-r32-with-rb25/
Share on other sites

Dude..

One thing that I am quite sure of is that the R32 GTST NEVER came out standard with a RB25DET.

The very late ones did come with an RB25DE but never the non turbo.

So it is not a standard car in that sense.

As for what the RB25DET has over the RB20DET...

RB20DET

157KW

263NM (I think..)

RB25DET

187KW

297NM (I think..)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1237-r32-with-rb25/#findComment-24950
Share on other sites

Nah it isnt j-spec. But whats the lowdown with them, are they ok? Havent checked them out yet but im assuming there the sort of place that sell run of the mill stuff for top dollar.

I had never heard of a rb25 32 either until this one.(whether it really is std dunno, just what salesmen told me) Also must ask about RUST! had a few tiny littler spots under the hood, top of the struts, under the skirts too and also was told a bit of water came out of the boot when i cornered. Didnt open the boot but guessing its just rain water. How much should rust affect the decision of buying this sorta car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1237-r32-with-rb25/#findComment-24987
Share on other sites

rust should tell you to keep away from the car a small amout is ok but water from the boot indicate rear end accident the one way to check if its a factory 25 det which I doubt is to check the compliace plate on the firewall it will have the engine there generally they are rb20de or det or rb25 de.

make sure its not too rough. you can get good r32's for 12-14k.

also make sure they will register the car for you as its not the factory motor could cause hassles.

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1237-r32-with-rb25/#findComment-24989
Share on other sites

they did make them with rb25det about 2000 at the very end, part of trailing the motor ready for the new skylines as well as just a bloody good idea. I guy i know in japan has one rekons they really go good!!! Plus an importer confirmed that they are real as he showed me one he was bidding on and it had the engine and chassis numbers on the sheet and they said rb25det!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1237-r32-with-rb25/#findComment-25114
Share on other sites

From memory Nissan made about 47 R32's with the 25t motor, this was in the last month before the R33 was introduced. I've seen one myself, and was thinking about buying one a couple of weeks ago (workmate's brother has one...about NZ$5,500)

I recon they would be a great ride.

Other than that, the naturally aspirated R32 GTS25 is quite common here. They drive quite nice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1237-r32-with-rb25/#findComment-25744
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...