Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Scrapping Noise

silver gts-t
 Share

Recommended Posts

silver gts-t Grand Master

silver gts-t

Posted
Posted

i just finished replacing my old high flow witha td06

everything went fine when i kicked it over apart from 1 problem, when i turned it over the turbo was making a scrapping noise. almost like a duck noise

it was consistent for the 1min then i turned it off

i installed a 34 row oil cooler and oil filter relocator but didnt do anything to pump oil through them 1st.

could this be the cause??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123705-turbo-scrapping-noise/
Share on other sites
silver gts-t Grand Master

silver gts-t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

update..

i move the front wheel with just my fingers and every so often it would scrape finely, but not on every revoloution..

i'm not thinking it could be the front housing,

at one stage i had it off to adjust the IC piping but i would think the circlip would lock it in place??

is it possible to be off center??

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

yeah it souinds like the comp wheel is scraping on the inside of the comp cover or shaft itself. ive got a shagged t28 on my desk at work which suffered exhaust wheel failure and it scrapes when you rotate it (ableit it has no active oil feed). it has a bit of shaft play, but obvious grinding/scraping

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

TD06... Trust... there should be shaft play dude.

Its bush bearing.

Much more than a Ball Bearing core.

Side-to-side there should be minor movement. In-n-out there shouldnt be play though.

The housing "might" be off centre, although i would doubt it.

Take the turbo off, dont start it again till you've taken off the housing to inspect it properly.

If the housing does seem ok, feed a bit of oil through it, and get a compressor to blow the turbine around and observe what it does.

Best you can do DIY @ home really as the housing touching isnt a good sign

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Well first of all. Take the turbo off and remove the housigns and inspect the insides and the wheels. You ahve had them apart for the the ceramic coating, did you polish the compressor cover? Make sure the circlip is driven all the way home on the compressor cover.

While your at it make cure the v-band clamp is tight and alignment ok. They shoudl be fine as they drive themselves home as you tighten them...but still worth a look.

Next is once its all back in place then i would pull the oil supply line off the turbo and put it into a 2L bottle of coke etc. Pull the plug off the ingtier module and turn the car over. Keep going until you get a good bit of oil in the bottle. I used soem machine oil directly inside my housing to give it a bit of lubrication on first start up.

Juts make sure the bottle is clean so when you are done you cna just pour it back inot the engine.

Fingers crossed its just a bit of mislagignment with the circlip not seatd properly.

Worst case, hmm. if the compressor is damaged then send the turbo off for a rebuild and throw a GT30 compressor on it.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

So your oil retuen line has a banjo bolt? Mine just had a tube stub that i pushed the hose over and hose clamped into position.

The oil feed is the banjo bolt off the block that goes to the top of the engine, well in my case anyway.

Im not sure how criticla it is, but oil returns are meant to be pretty direct and as smooth a curvature as possible (basically free draining)

My oil feed runs all over the shop as well, i dont think (hope :D ) its so critical.

Anyway, im probably just reading the pic wrong

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...