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Ok so I have killed my auto. My 3-4 clutch and possibly 2-4 band are dead. I have also been told they can be strengthened to take 230kw but beyond that the input put Shaft and Forward Planetary set are a weak point.

I am waiting for a quote to repair and strengthen it.

I am thinking that if the difference between a repaired and strengthened auto and a manual conversion is not too big I will look at doing the manual conversion.

I know most of the manual conversion stuff has been done to death in other threads but a few key things are still unanswered.

1. Why can’t a R33 GTS-t or R34 GTT clutch master cylinder be used?

2. Why can’t a R33 GTS-t or R34 GTT clutch pedal be used?

3. Why can’t a R33 GTS-t, R34 GTT or cut down Stagea brake pedal be used?

4. What about R33 GTS4 parts? Dose a GTS4 have a booster for the clutch?

It seems that if they can a fair bit could be saved. Has anyone actually tried using these parts?

So far the reasons have been that:

The GTR clutch master cylinder with booster is needed otherwise the clutch pedal will be too heavy. But plenty of people run the same clutches in R33 GTS-t as they do in R32 GTR’s and Series 2 Stagea manuals don’t have the booster. It seems like you would just need to pick the right clutch.

It has also been said that a Skyline clutch pedal wont bolt in and that a 260 part needs to be used. But what is the difference is it just a matter of drilling holes for the bolts in a different location? What about using a Stagea Series 2 pedal?

I’m not that worried about the interior at the moment, I can work that out later. I can do everything except for fitting the gearbox, fly wheel and clutch my self and would do that too if I had a hoist and gearbox jack.

I would fit the clutch pedal, MC and mod the brake pedal for clearance or fit a R33 GTS-t pedal my self before taking the auto out. Then take it to a workshop to take out the auto, fit the flywheel, clutch and gear box.

Gear box $1,200

Clutch / Flywheel $1,000

2nd hand R33 GTS-t Clutch peddle bits $500

R33 GTS-t hand brake cable and lever $50

Labour $800

Total $3,550

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1. Why can’t a R33 GTS-t or R34 GTT clutch master cylinder be used?

2. Why can’t a R33 GTS-t or R34 GTT clutch pedal be used?

3. Why can’t a R33 GTS-t, R34 GTT or cut down Stagea brake pedal be used?

4. What about R33 GTS4 parts? Dose a GTS4 have a booster for the clutch?

It seems that if they can a fair bit could be saved. Has anyone actually tried using these parts?

So far the reasons have been that:

The GTR clutch master cylinder with booster is needed otherwise the clutch pedal will be too heavy. But plenty of people run the same clutches in R33 GTS-t as they do in R32 GTR’s and Series 2 Stagea manuals don’t have the booster. It seems like you would just need to pick the right clutch.

It has also been said that a Skyline clutch pedal wont bolt in and that a 260 part needs to be used. But what is the difference is it just a matter of drilling holes for the bolts in a different location? What about using a Stagea Series 2 pedal?

I’m not that worried about the interior at the moment, I can work that out later. I can do everything except for fitting the gearbox, fly wheel and clutch my self and would do that too if I had a hoist and gearbox jack.

I would fit the clutch pedal, MC and mod the brake pedal for clearance or fit a R33 GTS-t pedal my self before taking the auto out. Then take it to a workshop to take out the auto, fit the flywheel, clutch and gear box.

Gear box $1,200

Clutch / Flywheel $1,000

2nd hand R33 GTS-t Clutch peddle bits $500

R33 GTS-t hand brake cable and lever $50

Labour $800

Total $3,550

Too many questions, but I will have a go

1. Series 2 stagea master cylinder is the same as R34 GTT $115 new

2. Series 2 stagea clutch pedal is different. not sure why, but only $87 new plus $115 for the mounting bracket. No need to muck around, just fit it

3. Refer to number 2

4. The only reason I can think a GTR uses a booster on the master cylinder is so you can fit a heavier clutch to suit the power level a RB26 can/could produce

I have ordered a Nismo slave cylinder as it bigger then the standard one, which will help with any heavier clutches $140 new

If you use a 32 GTR standard push type gearbox the clutch kits are nearly half the price of the R33 GTR pull type

R32 GTR gearbox $500-900

R33 GTR gearbox $850-1100, has been a few for sale lately for $1000 (lower k's than a r32)

Fly wheel $50 plus machining $50

Clutch kit R32 $500 R33 $900

Clutch pedal, bracket and master and slave all new $460

R33 brake pedal and bracket $50

Handbrake R33 $50

Braided clutch line $100

Centre console $750 thru R33Stagea

You can and will need to fit the handbrake at home when fitting the pedals etc.

I was looking at my car the other day, I need to change my brake booster when I upgrade the brakes to R34 ones and thought once it is out it will give me enough access to drill the holes thru the fire wall to mount the clutch master cylinder. The only problem is tring to get them to line up in the right spot to suit the clutch pedal mounting bracket, which has studs that protrude thru the fire wall from the the inside to bolt the master cylinder to.

Ok so I have killed my auto. My 3-4 clutch and possibly 2-4 band are dead. I have also been told they can be strengthened to take 230kw but beyond that the input put Shaft and Forward Planetary set are a weak point.

Did Keas tell you that? Feel free to do a manual conversion and don't by any means let me stop you but that's BS and more proof that the only person in Australia who knows these boxes is Mike at MV Automatics in Adelaide.

Mike does an upgrade rebuild for about $3500 including modified valvebody for sharper shifts and rebuild torque converter for different characteristics. Obviously this would be cheaper if you don't want those two things but he does seem to recommend it.

Mike warrants that it can handle at least 300rwkw and that's only because no one has put more through one of them to test higher power levels. I have 255rwkw and I thrash it everywhere. NPs.

The only other thing I will say before I huff on out of here is surely a second hand auto wold be a cheap solution to your problem?

Sorry to intrude guys. Just putting in a point for the much maligned auto. Now you can go back to the point of this thread.

I might aswell put in my 2 cents then. My auto is shagged also.

R33 GTS25 4WD Gearbox

R33 GTS25 Flywheel

R32 GTR Clutch & Pressure Plate (New)

R34 GT-T Clutch Pedal

R34 GT-T Brake Pedal

S14 Clutch Master Cylinder

R32 Clutch Line

R33 Handbrake Assembly

R34 Centre Console to blend with Stagea Console

I'll let you know how it all went on Monday

tRUkbOY

I’m very interested to hear how you go. Would be good to see some pics,

How much did all your parts cost you?

darrinspencer

So using R33 gear box that works out to $2,700 worth of parts excluding the interior bits Then if you include $1,000 labor $3700 and your on the road.

Have you done your conversion yet?

Not really that much more than performance rebuilt auto at $3,320 installed.

Abo Bob

I have spoken to Mike at MV and he definitely sounds like he knows what he’s doing and about the same cost as Keas for a more comprehensive rebuild.

How do your find your Trans for every day driving? Not too harsh on gear changes when just commuting.

darrinspencer

So using R33 gear box that works out to $2,700 worth of parts excluding the interior bits Then if you include $1,000 labor $3700 and your on the road.

Have you done your conversion yet?

Burns

I paided

$850 R33 g/box

$450 to get s/hand clutch rebuilt

$650 for s/hand interior centre console

$460 for clutch pedal setup new

Plus the other bits

approx $2700 all up

Labour I will do myself

I will be doing the manual conversion and the GTR front conversion as soon as I get it it complianced in approx 4 weeks

Then I will get it registered

My apologies for not reposting about the conversion.

Started the swap at 1pm on Saturday & I drove it home at 7.30 Sunday night, as a manual. Took approx 18 hours, 2 packs of cigarettes & 22 Coronas. Had access to a hoist & gearbox lifter & 3 or 4 other people for manpower.

I have posted a 'How to' on SDU as SAU was down yesterday for some reason.

Here is the link http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51894

I could post a Complete thread here as well if people are interested.

Stagea goes FANTASTIC now by the way!!!!

All up it cost me NZ$1880 + beer & fluids.

I am still yet to finish the console & fix down the handbrake but I'll do that this weekend.

Great effort!

Would be good if you could add your detailed how to do post to the original manual thread

So the R34 clutch pedal and mounting bracket fitted then?

Also it was a relief to see the clutch master cylinder mounting hole locations were already there in the fire wall. Saved a bit of guess work

Was it easy or hard to get a drill and hole saw to that location from inside the car?

Great effort!

Would be good if you could add your detailed how to do post to the original manual thread

Will do that

So the R34 clutch pedal and mounting bracket fitted then?

Yup yup, bolted straight up. Can't say them same for the R34 brake pedal though

Also it was a relief to see the clutch master cylinder mounting hole locations were already there in the fire wall. Saved a bit of guess work

Was it easy or hard to get a drill and hole saw to that location from inside the car?

Actually wasn't to bad. Used a 40mm holesaw. Easy as

Good work. I found your post on SDU just after I posted here.

I have begun getting prices for parts now.

I could probably do it all my self if I had acces to a hoist and trans jack. It dosn't look like it will be too big a job for a workshop if I do everything else.

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