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Who Can Work Some Magic?


DJ984
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I'd choose the SR20 for anything under 230rwkw as exactly what Dave and Shan have said.

If you want easy power from the SR20 you put a few bolt ons and you'll have 230rwkw. Probably cost a few grand.

You'll have a 50/50 balanced car with plenty of torque and a lot of zip.

I'd even have to challenge Ando when he says rb25 for track. I'd say the 50/50 distribution of the sr20 cefiro would something I'm more partial to. But that's just me, and we are both biased :teehee:

To be honost a RB20 is a piece of shit compared to a SR20. I know these debates range all over the place and I've been in RB20's that nearly convinced me they're the same engine from the drivers perspectives but really.... the sr20 has it. So we've knocked the rb20 out of Dave's new cefiro engine choice.

So there's the rb25 and sr20 left..

Dave you're on the money when you say the rb25 felt through the whole range. I've been in a few rb25 ceffies now and they do power through... thing is though if you're pulling 200rwkw with the rb25 you could have had a lighter sr20 with better distribution - that might factor on the minds of rb25 owners. Off course that doesn't make a rb25 one a bad proposition - It's personal preference that can sway the sub 230rwkw sr20 vs rb25 cefiro choice. The sr20 donk also costs more in Aus than a rb25 donk on average anyway.. so that might factor.

So I think Shan hit the nail on the head however that if you were planning on getting MORE power (I set the threshhold at 230rwkw) then go the rb25 because it's easier. I wouldn't bother trying more power from the sr20 unless you want to be special, but I would pick the SR20 by default as the better proposition.

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Thanks again CC, a lot of good info there... the SR is sounding like a better option now...

funky: definitely not going for a dyno beast lol, she'll be a drift bitch :D The plan is though, to save as much on engine mods as I can and use good suspension / wheels and tyre choices to get the most effective package I can.

I think the most important thing that people have brought up is the front end weight (as the last thing you want in a drifter is a lot of front end weight 'causing understeer).

But yeah, save up more dude. Buy one thats got the gear done. Unless you know exactly what your going to do anyway. Then buy a preloved auto thats already here and go for gold.

Say you know you want SK suspension, then getting a car with coilovers already on its a waste.

You want 4 stud because thats the wheels you want etc.

Get my drift, pardon the pun.

And well if its going to be a year or two to save up... Mine should be up for sale in about 2 years. By then its going to be perfect. Id want a V35 by then I think.

I pretty much know exactly what I want and, as you've pointed out, I'm always thinking I'll be changing this and that when i look at pre-build ones from japland which makes it harder to work out the plan of attack.

BUT... on the other hand, there's a few things a pre-build one could come with that I haven't allowed for (diff being the first that comes to mind, aftermarket turbo / management being an instant no. 2)

lol! i'm expecting it to be somewhere between now and 12 months from now and, unfortunately, I have no control over that what so ever... but, as the topic started (and as your post mentions as well), if i can get a cheapo for the right money, then i can start now and build it up over that 12 months (the way i want) leaving less to spend when i finally get the money :O

Ok... so to make more sense... here's the plan I've sketched up. if anything doesn't make sense, let me know and i'll try explain. Some things may seem a little cheap but they may be because i should be able to get them for that price (contacts). Either way, let me know what you think.

p.o.s. NA Auto Cef $3,000.00

RB25DET F/cut $3,500.00

Tail Shaft $100.00

Engine freshen-up $1,000.00

Gearbox access. $100.00

Clutch $700.00

Flywheel $450.00

Conversion $1,000.00

Fuel Pump $300.00

FMIC Kit w/ Plenum $3,500.00

5 stud conversion $600.00

Brakes (rotors / pads etc) $500.00

respray / body work $3,500.00

wsx kit $1,500.00

Drift style Hand brake $400.00

Engine Damper $90.00

Oil Cooler Kit $400.00

Exhaust $800.00

Wheels / Tyres $1,500.00

F + B Strut braces $300.00

Suspension $1,500.00

$24,740.00

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as you can see... for a 3k car, it's not a cheap build up lol!

the other avenue is:

p.o.s. NA Auto Cef $3,000.00

RB26DETT F/cut $6,000.00

Tail Shaft $100.00

Engine freshen-up $1,200.00

Gearbox access. $100.00

Clutch $1,300.00

Flywheel $600.00

Conversion $1,000.00

Fuel Pump $300.00

5 stud conversion $600.00

Brakes (rotors / pads etc) $500.00

respray / body work $3,500.00

wsx kit $1,500.00

Drift style Hand brake $400.00

Engine Damper $90.00

Oil Cooler Kit $400.00

Exhaust $800.00

Wheels / Tyres $1,500.00

F + B Strut braces $300.00

Suspension $1,500.00

$24,690.00

But, i think the most important thing to keep in mind is... minimal engine expenses / mods.

which means we're back to square one... rb25 or sr20? (based on a close to stock engine) - difficult little so and so aren't i?? :O

Edited by DJ984
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are you actually plainning on spending that much?

you know you could just buy my rb26dett ceffy for less than your mod list and it has heaps of shit. :D

im just farking over it, and the whole scene in vic.

man... with the pain I've been through in the last 6 months, I want my next car to be as fun as i can. honestly though... for what i want, there's not many places I can cut back though is there? Keeping in mind I want solid reliability. I could do without the 5 stud conversion as that's more for wheel choice than anything (whack on some 33GTR rims) and I'm more than happy to stay with 4 stud wheels (buy some brand new ones for the same money - obviously nothing super good)

but as we've been saying and as you've said, the other option I'll have is to buy something pre-built and just make any minor changes I want.

on a side note... got some pics for me to add to my collection? lol

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cough.. 1JZ.. cough

:D

ha ha ha!

besides the cringing thought of replacing a nissan engine with a toyota one (only shit stirring, no-one need get on the defence)... won't it work out more expensive doing a 1jz as apposed to a rb25?

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meh, I have a nissan engine in my toyota... it goes better than it would with a toyota engine. plus it makes all the ae86 fanboys blow chunks (apparently its sacreligious or some shit), which is pretty amusing.

One of these days I'll get a 1m square size sticker that says "CA18DET inside" on my bonnet.

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on a side note... got some pics for me to add to my collection? lol

cef_15.jpg'

only pic i have i deleted the rest. car will easily put down 300rwkw, so how about you give me your gtr? ahahha. seriuosly i want a gtr.

ps. its henry's old car from sydney now in melb now.

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cef_15.jpg'

only pic i have i deleted the rest. car will easily put down 300rwkw, so how about you give me your gtr? ahahha. seriuosly i want a gtr.

ps. its henry's old car from sydney now in melb now.

henry...? hmmm, i think that's the bloke that i spoke to about a trade on the GTR. unfortunately i missed out because i wanted some money for a home deposit. top bloke though and fkn awesome car.

I can't see the pic now so i'll have to wait till i get home (for some reason i think the firewall is blocking it here at work - it does that now and then).

I'll do you a deal. I will trade you what's left of my GTR plus full ownership for your rb26 cefiro?

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Not after you replace the stock RB25 twice before you would the 1J :D

ahhh... but not pushing heavily on engine mods / power will save me that hassle

as with the support I'm giving the engine in the mods (oil cooler, front facing plenum and front mount etc etc etc)... alll little things to make it more relaible whilst adding to the power slowly :( hehe!

(probably gonna get flamed for that but i know how it's gonna be looked after so makes perfect sense to me lol :wub:)

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henry...? hmmm, i think that's the bloke that i spoke to about a trade on the GTR. unfortunately i missed out because i wanted some money for a home deposit. top bloke though and fkn awesome car.

I can't see the pic now so i'll have to wait till i get home (for some reason i think the firewall is blocking it here at work - it does that now and then).

I'll do you a deal. I will trade you what's left of my GTR plus full ownership for your rb26 cefiro?

what happened to your R? actually to be honest i just threw the option of your gtr in the air but im not 100% on what im doing with the car hence why i havent made much effort to advertise it. more than likely if your interested it would be a straight cash sale as i have to many importer friends to work out a sweet deal with.

let us know i can send specs if your interested. ill let this section know before i go all out and advertise.

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Oh Sh!t i never even noticed, sorry to hear. i just read the last page thats really messed up.

lol! yeah, i thought you'd missed it :D

thanks man, yeah, it sucks but hopefully (somewhere in the next 12 months :wub:), i'll get some retribution.

edit: just came home and saw the pic... yeah, that's the one that i spoke to the previous owner about a trade. Damn sweet ride!

- my offer still stands, remains + complete ownership of my R for that ceffy :( ha ha!

Edited by DJ984
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Welllll

If you want my honest oppinion... Im just scraping $30k spent now including the cost of the car, and I havent got to the engine yet, or ANY body work. Its all been repairs (anything repaired/replaced got the best upgrade I could afford and or felt the car needed) that and $4-6k of stereo, no idea I stopped keeping track.

And Im guessing if you buy a stock rb20e (de) auto, you would last all of 2 weeks before cracking it and going all out.

Best bet, get something you cant or really just wont waste money on and save like a mofo for that year, then buy the car, go to town on it ALL AT ONCE and it will work out at your calculation (ps you forgot the $3k blow out of costs addition). If not you'll end up like me >_< .

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Welllll

If you want my honest oppinion... Im just scraping $30k spent now including the cost of the car, and I havent got to the engine yet, or ANY body work. Its all been repairs (anything repaired/replaced got the best upgrade I could afford and or felt the car needed) that and $4-6k of stereo, no idea I stopped keeping track.

And Im guessing if you buy a stock rb20e (de) auto, you would last all of 2 weeks before cracking it and going all out.

Best bet, get something you cant or really just wont waste money on and save like a mofo for that year, then buy the car, go to town on it ALL AT ONCE and it will work out at your calculation (ps you forgot the $3k blow out of costs addition). If not you'll end up like me :dry: .

lol... yeah, i left the 3k blow out off the list because i wanted to stop adding things to it before the costs got too high lol!

even if i crack it with an rb20e / de though, the fact will remain that I can't do much about it till i get this other stuff sorted (GTR), then the plan is to pretty much do it all at once anyway. The only advantage of getting a cheap one now is i can do simple stuff like bodykit / bodywork / wheels / interior work etc that wont cost much (and can keep me occupied). Then, when the GTR issue is sorted, she's off for an engine swap :D he he!

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