Jump to content
SAU Community

Forged Pistons. Which Ones?

B0oStEr

By B0oStEr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
I can buy new ACL for $1100 or JE pistons for $1200 or second hand Wiseco for half that but when you factor in new rings it's not such a big saving.

Can I buy them at a better price elsewhere or look at some other brand?

Dont bother buying second hand, usually more trouble than they are worth.

ACL are good value, CP are also an excellent piston.

ezi09s Explorer

ezi09s

Posted
Posted (edited)

you have to look at the power level your chasing. acl may be good value, but will they take 700hp worth of punishment? doubt it. ive used acl pistons before, and dont get me wrong, theyr great. but you have to do a complete package, not just pick and choose parts, as one part may be a weak link in the chain, and fail destroying your motor.

and dont go second hand, many drag motors have pull downs every few 100kms, but they do get punished in that period, and may be ready to fail.

Edited by ezi09s
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Remember sizing aswell.

Forgies might not suit your motor if you havent got it apart yet and know what size you actually need :)

No point getting them @ 86mm and then your needing 87mm :wub:

And you wont know that till its all machined and inspected etc etc

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted
Remember sizing aswell.

Forgies might not suit your motor if you havent got it apart yet and know what size you actually need :)

No point getting them @ 86mm and then your needing 87mm :wub:

And you wont know that till its all machined and inspected etc etc

couldnt you sleeve the bores?

nothing wrong with used pistons, dependent on condition etc... but probably not worth the potential hassle; spend the ca$h on newies IMO.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

But why sleeve if you can purchase something off the shelf.

By the time you spend the $$$ having it sleeved etc.

You'd probably have a new set of pistons in there or within $200 or so of it like you said :)

I personally know my choice on the matter - new.

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted (edited)

CP are the shit. but any piston can fail. dont think because they are forged that you cant break them. i torched a $1200 set of Ross pistons in the Galant due to an alternator failure, yes $300 each, very upset but i learnt my lesson.

But why sleeve if you can purchase something off the shelf.

By the time you spend the $$$ having it sleeved etc.

You'd probably have a new set of pistons in there or within $200 or so of it like you said :)

I personally know my choice on the matter - new.

Edited by BezerkR32
rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
CP are the shit. but any piston can fail. dont think because they are forged that you cant break them. i torched a $1200 set of Ross pistons in the Galant due to an alternator failure, yes $300 each, very upset but i learnt my lesson.

Asinine comment removed - make sense or go away. :)

B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I'm a bit concerned about going 2nd hand.

5000k might be low ks but it's a lot of 10 second passes.

I'm not looking for huge power and stock pistons would be fine for my current needs but the motor was n/a so I need other pistons to lower the compression ratio and to raise the pin height to accommodate the rb26 crank.

I considered buying 2nd hand stock rb26 pistons and running them in the original bore but as the block doesn't have the oil squirters I was advised to use forged pistons or at least have the stockies ceramic coated.

Although the bores are quite good I'd feel better with a fresh bore.

I'm planning going 87mm straight up. I'm not worried about leaving any for a further rebuild as 2nd hand blocks are cheap.

How good are the JE pistons?

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

no need to be a smart arse, this was about 6 years ago and i was using a fuel only F3 Haltech and running methanol. push engine as hard as i do and we will see if your liitle computer will save your engine. the point is a forged piston can fail, regardless of the cause, fuel pump, injector alternator etc. if you are posting to give the guy advise and help answer his question its all good. if you post is off topic and your just trying to piss someone off, well congratulations you have succeeded. as it seems you have all the answers and obviously havent broken anything how about forwarding the guy some of your knowledge, otherwise suggest moderators do there job and delete posts that are off topic and that are a deliberate shitstir.

Off topic, vague nonsense
B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've heard good and bad things about most brands of forgies.

I'm sure for my moderate application they all would be ok so I guess it really comes down to price and JE and ACL seem to be a few hundred cheaper than the others unless I'm not looking in the right places.

Any suggestions?

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
no need to be a smart arse, this was about 6 years ago and i was using a fuel only F3 Haltech and running methanol. push engine as hard as i do and we will see if your liitle computer will save your engine. the point is a forged piston can fail, regardless of the cause, fuel pump, injector alternator etc. if you are posting to give the guy advise and help answer his question its all good. if you post is off topic and your just trying to piss someone off, well congratulations you have succeeded. as it seems you have all the answers and obviously havent broken anything how about forwarding the guy some of your knowledge, otherwise suggest moderators do there job and delete posts that are off topic and that are a deliberate shitstir.

The point of my comment was that if your deciding to build an engine than its obvious that you are probably at a level of power that needs a decent ECU. ie one that has battery compensations. What was the lesson learnt?

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
The point of my comment was that if your deciding to build an engine than its obvious that you are probably at a level of power that needs a decent ECU. ie one that has battery compensations. What was the lesson learnt?

The alternator dying on the Galant caused the voltage to the fuel pumps to drop and the lean-out condition killed the engine.

It was a fuel only computer back in the day when full ECU's were lots of $$$.

No-one buys fuel only ecu's these days do they?

Anyway.......Pistons!

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...