Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$18000 $16500 or make an offer.

1993 R33 GTS-T

I am the first Australian owner.

Mechanically Stock.

NO BOOST CONTROLLERS OR POWER UPS

Serviced every 5000 kms

Burgandy.

Manual.

18" Wheels with 235F and 265R tyres

Bomex Front Bar.

GTR style front grille with custom GTS badge!!!!!!

Eyelids

Side Skirts.

GTR Style Rear Wing.

Nismo clear side indicators

K&N Air filter.

3" Cat Back Exhaust

Leather Steering wheel

New Leather Gear and Handbrake boots

Silver Dash Panels

Reverse OEL dash lights

3 Stage Immobiliser

Always looked after, never dragged or thrashed.

I had the previous tyres 3 years!! has fresh ones now!

Much loved car.

Must sell to upgrade

post-330-1151484393.jpg

post-330-1151484448.jpg

post-330-1151484515.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124132-for-sale-skyline-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...

whats it like mechanically. and honestally. any problems etc

i got me 15.5k might be a bit less than u are looking for tho

its gotta be a daily for me and not a complete bitch with the fuel, and i figure by keeping it mechanically stock u must be thinking along the same lines

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...