Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well after spending alot of money and time on suspension... taking the car for a drive last night and notice that its just not going the way she should up in the rev range....

Symptoms

not pulling hard in higher revs

backfiring more

lumpy idle/searching for idle sometimes

can hear miss at idle

Now im pretty sure its one of my coil packs... i know i should search but im lazy....

how can i tell which coil pack it is?

will r33 coilpacks fit in?

anyone got any 2nd hand RB20 coilpacks?

Will she die at a random time? eg crossing harbour bridge at peak hour?

Thanks all, just want to get this sorted asap as i love higher revs if you know what i mean....

Ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124285-farken-coil-packs/
Share on other sites

well after spending alot of money and time on suspension... taking the car for a drive last night and notice that its just not going the way she should up in the rev range....

Symptoms

not pulling hard in higher revs

backfiring more

lumpy idle/searching for idle sometimes

can hear miss at idle

Now im pretty sure its one of my coil packs... i know i should search but im lazy....

how can i tell which coil pack it is?

will r33 coilpacks fit in?

anyone got any 2nd hand RB20 coilpacks?

Will she die at a random time? eg crossing harbour bridge at peak hour?

Thanks all, just want to get this sorted asap as i love higher revs if you know what i mean....

Ed

When did you last change the spark plugs?

What plugs are you using?

What gap are they set to?

:D cheers ;)

PS, turbo cars are killer on plugs, it most likely isn't the coils

When did you last change the spark plugs?

What plugs are you using?

What gap are they set to?

:D cheers ;)

PS, turbo cars are killer on plugs, it most likely isn't the coils

plugs got done maybe 30,000km ago

they are igk platinum

set to stock gap

should have another 40,000km in them EASY.....

shes always had a slight miss at idle even with older plugs.... so im thinking one of the coils has been on its way out for a long time now...

plugs got done maybe 30,000km ago

they are igk platinum

set to stock gap

should have another 40,000km in them EASY.....

shes always had a slight miss at idle even with older plugs.... so im thinking one of the coils has been on its way out for a long time now...

Stock plug gap is 1.1 mm which is too large.

Try 0.8 mm for boost up to 1 bar and 0.65 mm for boost over 1 bar

:D cheers ;)

alrighty, where is the best place to get them regapped?

due to wat ive mentioned im really thinking its one of the coil packs....

im only running 11psi but hits 13 on cold nights

1.1 mm (probably 1.2 by now due to wear of the electrodes) is a 38% larger gap than 0.8 mm.

1.1 mm is a good gap for 6 psi, you have almosty doubled that (plus a bit on cold nights).

Check out the DIY section for R&R and gapping spark plugs, it's not that hard.

:D cheers ;)

alrighty ill give it a go over the weekend...

if it is one of my coil packs ive been told that taking out one at a time at idle and if the idle dosent change (keeps misfiring) then thats the faulty one...

should i test that too?

I don't think I've heard an R32 that doesn't have the odd ever so slight pop on idle. I'm not sure you could really call it a miss as a miss is very pronounced.

From what I've been able to fiddle with the only way to completely remove it is to richen up the idle afr to a shade over 14.

I only noticed my occasional pop on idle once I had the exhaust fitted.

Ed,

If it's not happening all the time there's a pretty good chance it's the coil packs. When you get the coils out, have a good look at the clearish plastic window on the side and see if there's any burn marks, bubbles in the plastic, cracks etc, etc. Also, pull the rubber boot off the end and check out the carbon contact ( and spring ) to see if it's shot. The carbon bit contacts the end of the spark plug and can errode over a long period of time.

When I had my HR31, sometimes the car would be OK but when the coils packs got hot, the fault would show up. I replaced my set with a set that were in much better condition and problem solved.

If you do need coil packs, give me a yell. I've got a bunch of really good condition ones.

Otherwise, have a good look at spark plugs, wiring, connection plugs etc for general condition.

Hope that helps you some :dry:

Had a couple of ignitor failures as mentioned earlier, this will give you simptoms you are experiencing, but as SKid said , start with the basics first, keep in mind the components you are talking about are around 16 years old.

Ed,

If it's not happening all the time there's a pretty good chance it's the coil packs. When you get the coils out, have a good look at the clearish plastic window on the side and see if there's any burn marks, bubbles in the plastic, cracks etc, etc. Also, pull the rubber boot off the end and check out the carbon contact ( and spring ) to see if it's shot. The carbon bit contacts the end of the spark plug and can errode over a long period of time.

When I had my HR31, sometimes the car would be OK but when the coils packs got hot, the fault would show up. I replaced my set with a set that were in much better condition and problem solved.

If you do need coil packs, give me a yell. I've got a bunch of really good condition ones.

Otherwise, have a good look at spark plugs, wiring, connection plugs etc for general condition.

Hope that helps you some :dry:

Hey dude if you figure out the problem make sure you post back here ok. Im running pretty much the same set up and have the same problem. Had my fuel pump replaced and after that it ran alot better but now its gone crap again so i need to start with some other ideas (which unfortunately there are alot of, my mechanic is convinced that my timing belts off by a gear or 2, but im 90% sure hes had to many spanners drop on his head)

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
Hey dude if you figure out the problem make sure you post back here ok. Im running pretty much the same set up and have the same problem. Had my fuel pump replaced and after that it ran alot better but now its gone crap again so i need to start with some other ideas (which unfortunately there are alot of, my mechanic is convinced that my timing belts off by a gear or 2, but im 90% sure hes had to many spanners drop on his head)

I had pretty much the same problem in 1 X R32GTST, 2 X R33GTS's, 1 X R34GTT and 1 X Stagea and fitting NGK copper plugs and gapping them as per the above fixed it in ALL of them.

Why look for the complicated answer before trying the simple and cheap ($20) solution first.

:D cheers :P

and while you have the coilpacks out to change the plugs you could tape them up. kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

But then you won't know what the real problem was.

One thing at a time

Leave the plug cover off until you are happy

Then it is simple to check the coil packs if it's not the plugs

:huh: cheers :angry:

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
    • Sounds good, we will aim to be there! @The Bogan I'll give you a shout if you are heading up to campbelltown for the meet too.
    • Before I get to the test day, just to finish off the android head unit. This is a demo from car start up....the standard/host system takes a few seconds to boot (same as all v37) but Android comes up quickly. In this vid I'm using the delivered launcher but have set the default to Agami since which is easier to navigate when if use primarily 5 apps. You can see the host system still takes over when required eg putting it in reverse, and you can switch between Android and not by holding the back button 3 sec. It is pretty responsive (fast) but you can see I had to press harder than expected a couple of times.  I still have the phone connected to the stock system, and that also seamlessly takes over Android music playing. v37-android-demo.mp4 The bigger reason that I put this in though is so that I can use Ecutek directly on the head unit. That gives me a dash with logging (up to 20MB only), high and low value warnings on any parameter etc etc. I've run a USB cable from the Ecutek OBD dongle to a USB input on the unit, easy. v37-ecutek-demo.mp4   The unit did freeze on the launcher the other day, I think Agami was trying to verify the license when it didn't have a data connection...will monitor and report back if there are any other problems but so far I'm very happy with the upgrade.
    • Nah that is just crappy GPS mapping, I did have a small excursion (cold tyres, damp track, surprise!), will post up that when I get a chance.
×
×
  • Create New...