Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Chrome and Skylines don't mix...

But if you HAVE to, then go the race-style chrome.

Even better, get a polished wheel - shine without the added weight that chroming adds.

i have 20 x 8.5" wheels on my R33 GTS25t

front and rear guards have been rolled, tyres are 225/30/zr20

guards sit just on the rim, front and rear with only minimal rubbing at the front on hard lock.

Basically, 20s are so big, that it's almost impossible to keep the rolling diametre the same (on a skyline anyways).

19s are still really massive, if you really must go for big wheels.

Run it in a tyre calculator, but i have never seen any profile less than 30.

so your telling me my stupid 17 inch volk racing wheels r better

First of all work out what you want to achieve, looks (like I said chrome on sports are is bad, good for 4WD like in America) or power. If you have a massive FMIC and upped boost and 20 inch chromies... wtf are you trying to achieve? Its like a sprinter having a cigarette before a run...

If you want a nice modded car with nice wheels then get some smaller 18 wheels that are light weight... Im not asking you to get the super light type but something that doesnt weigh a tone... youll be amazed how slower sports cars go with 20 inch rims, esp chrome.

Make up your mind with the following pics:

Clearly chromes are suited for the 4WD!

post-23785-1152025997.jpg

post-23785-1152026026.jpg

post-23785-1152026037.jpg

Edited by Sir-D

Hell yea, gimme your volks :thumbsup:

Chrome is bad, but shadow chrome etc, the other forms that look fitting are nice...

There's a guy up the road from me with chromies on his monaro.. The entire rim is chrome lol, looks like a massive silver dinner plate.. it's ugly.

Don't put chrome near your car... unless its shadowcrome etc etc

And yea, 20's 19's even 18's are going to compromise your car's drivability and handling if not properly set up with the appropriate suspension...

... Dn't get chrome :

Massive chrome on skylines dont mix in my opinion, dont get me started on those vaults ones ahaha. Not only does huge chrome rims adds more weight to the car it also kills the comfort factor and tyres will burn a deep hole in your wallet. I rekon 17 18s light weight Jap rims are the way to go, suits the car more.

But hey if 20inch chormies float your boat Mario then go for it, its your car man in the end your customizing it to your liking not for others.

Edited by JUNR34
  • 10 months later...
I am Getting gianelle deep chrome dish jet black 10 spoke 20s i seen an r33 with the black car black wheels with chrome dish looks sexy...how often will i hav to change tires ?

that all depends on alignment, and how stupid you are with the car.

not often if you dont do burnouts and drift. if you do... you better have deep pockets :(

At the end of the day its your car and you should modify it to your tastes not others.. if your intending to do SHOW then by all means go 20", but if its for a street car go 18".

and tyre prices between 19" and 20" isn't much different either, so if you can afford the initial cost may as well go 20". You will need 30 series on the front and if you like 35 on rear.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...