Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, the situation is my car is pinging lightly in the cold weather. I know it has been on a dyno with the previous owner and had the timing advanced, it has the standard computer and running ~9psi with a turbosmart bleed valve. I know how to adjust ignition timing with a distributor but not entirely sure how with a crank angle sensor.

So what do I need to do to retard the timing a touch?

1. Do I need to disconnect anything or follow a certain order for it to be effective?

2. Do I need to turn it clockwise (I'm assuming it's clockwise)

3. Is there anything special I should know?

A little advice would be much appreciated as if I could just take it back a few degrees that would give me great piece of mind.

Also, why I'm here, does adjusting the CAS even make much of a difference? I assume it's the only way I can ajust the timing with the standard computer.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124629-how-do-i-adjust-ignition-timing/
Share on other sites

Well, you need a timing light.

Then put a mark on the cas and the plate that it sits on so you know where your start point is.

clamp the timing light onto cylinder one lead. I saw it dont by resting the sensor ontop of coilpack ocvers once - it worked.

Then you undo 3 bolts holding the cas on and twist it while looking at the marks on the main drive pulley.. There should be some marks that line up with it.

Then bolt it up when you have achieved you desired timing.

I don't know which way toturn it to retard it.

It's not real hard to figure that out when your doing it though.

Be sure to have the engine at normal running temp (take it for a 10 min drive before doing it.), i'm not sure on the exact reason why but iv heard numerous bad stories from people who havnt.

one reason is that when the engine is cold it runs different to when its warm (cold start, etc)

dont think that skylines run a wasted spark system

Jah, one coil per cylinder, no wasted spark.

So as Craved indicates, checking the timing should be no issue. Ignition timing is partially done by the ECU, and partially set by the base timing (CAS).

With your stock ECU, everyone is on the money with checking the timing. Might be easier to set the CAS back to factory, then reset the ECU and let it do its job... it's probably retarding the timing as much as it can, but with the base so far advanced, it can only bring it back roughly to zero. (15BTDC anyway)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...