Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just wondering. It's looking like i might have to get a new ECU for my car, old one has been sent away for checking as they said it could be causing the troubles i've had.

Anyway, my question is what would a good aftermarket ECU be for my R32 gtst, RB20 with mild mods, (cooler, boost controller etc). I've been looking at the Apexi Power FC, but don't seem to make then for RB20's as i've discovered. Was also looking at the Greddy E-manage, any recommendations on that or anything else please say.

Thanks :nyaanyaa:

Edited by vanix
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124825-aftermarket-ecu-for-rb20/
Share on other sites

u can get the power fc for rb20's but u will have to look hard to find it...have a look on some of the traders and see if they can find u one.

Emanage isnt a stand alone its a piggy back and for mild mods a piggy back is ok. But if u were going to plan some big mods later on u may want a ecu that can do just about everything and in that case go for the power fc

But wht ecu u should get matters on what kind of mods u plan to run in the future..if its small mods atm the emanage will do the job

Edited by Bo0oSt

The RB20 powerfc's can be had easily..

Buy in australia and youw ill pay big $$.

Your best bet is to buy one from nengun.

http://www.nengun.com/

As I've recently discovered the AP Engineering RB20 Powerfc is nothing more than a slightly modified RB25 powerfc, it 'appears' the ap engineering use an early model rb25 pfc and modify it.

Its wise to grab the wolf 3d v4plus as the regular version only has 4 coil drivers, resulting in overheated coils.

I believe Steve from SST has informed wolf of this problem.

Another downside is the batch injection vs the powerfc's sequential.

Sequential injection is supposed to offer better economy, low and mid range power. If it really does... not sure probably not noticable. :)

The idea of sequential is to squirt as the valve is open, so fuel doesn't sit around and drop out of the air.

The benefit of running the injectors in batch mode is that you are able to squeeze a little more out of your injectors as it squirts twice instead of once like the sequential.

I believe the wolf3d's closed loop mode is a little more flexible.

So really it comes down to your tuner, what does he like.

Really depends on what your doing..

In my example a remap wasn't worth while, in the long run it would have cost me considerably more.

So far mines been tuned 3 times, the price received to remap the ecu was $600 for a complete remap, they wouldn't do just a full throttle type remap to get it drivable as I required, no point spending big $$ on a time consuming complete tune when a z32 was soon to be dropped in, then injectors, then a slightly larger turbo and now soon to be considerably larger turbo.

In this aspect the pfc definitely has it over the remap.

IF my pfc was stuffed I did briefly think about grabbing a stock ecu and having that dude on here do a chip for $150 odd, the problem here is I would miss my hand controller too much. :thumbsup:

The PFC is a good thing, I used to have a slight idle issue on the stock ecu, suprisingly my idle is now perfect.

So in short, if you wish to leave your car the way it is, no furthur mods go the remap, if not definitely look at the pfc.

Hey guys,

Just wondering. It's looking like i might have to get a new ECU for my car, old one has been sent away for checking as they said it could be causing the troubles i've had.

Anyway, my question is what would a good aftermarket ECU be for my R32 gtst, RB20 with mild mods, (cooler, boost controller etc). I've been looking at the Apexi Power FC, but don't seem to make then for RB20's as i've discovered. Was also looking at the Greddy E-manage, any recommendations on that or anything else please say.

Thanks :thumbsup:

depending on your budget

mircotech

haltech

autronic

link

ems

wolf vs4

motec

Thanks for the replies guys.

Probably will go for the power FC as i will be doing things like turbo, injectors eventually.

Only trouble is if i get one through Nengun there will be a wait, i'm prolly gonna need one within a couple weeks at the most. Any ideas?

One other thing, the POwer FC doesn't come with software that will enable you to plug it into a laptop/notebook. I'm assuming some of the others do. Does this really matter? Can this all be done on the hand controller?

My budget is around 1500 max. I just want something that will run sweet and is relatively user friendly.

edit: Just reading other thread linked about the re-wiring. Looks like that will be the way to go.

Edited by vanix

I don't think the microtech is a viable option for the street.

They don't run closed loop mode and are known for not returning the best fuel economy.

Stick with either the wolf3d v4plus or powerfc and you can't go wrong.

The powerfc doesn't come with the laptop software but in all honesty, its not really needed until you start doing motor swaps or really big turbo's. :thumbsup:

From nengun the rb25 powerfc can be at your door in 10days after payment has cleared, payment clearing takes a day or two, the powerfc comes with a hand controller.

Have you priced the wolf3d v4plus or is the rb plugin a plus version standard, their web site isn't all that clear on this matter.

The wolf3d just for the ecu is from memory around $1400 odd

I don't think the microtech is a viable option for the street.

They don't run closed loop mode and are known for not returning the best fuel economy.

Stick with either the wolf3d v4plus or powerfc and you can't go wrong.

The powerfc doesn't come with the laptop software but in all honesty, its not really needed until you start doing motor swaps or really big turbo's. :D

From nengun the rb25 powerfc can be at your door in 10days after payment has cleared, payment clearing takes a day or two, the powerfc comes with a hand controller.

Have you priced the wolf3d v4plus or is the rb plugin a plus version standard, their web site isn't all that clear on this matter.

The wolf3d just for the ecu is from memory around $1400 odd

they have a wide band sensor but not for close loop yet but they say there developing stuff at the moment

haltech on the other hand they have close loop etc std on all there ecu,s

haltech also have plug in and play but i dont know if they have then for nissans yet

the down side to pfc sod all ppl can tune them (ie change parrameters ) unlke haltech wolf microtech etc

A blind man could tune the PFC... :D

Unless your making more than 2-3x the power all tuning can be done via the hand controller, no laptop software is required.

Here in Adelaide there are 6 tuners that have or have access to the datalogit software should they be required to extend the map reference or tweak the airflow curve due to unstreetable rwd power levels.

Microtech have been saying they are developing a closed loop system for the last couple of years that I know of.

The PFC runs the car damn well, 6 injector outputs, 6 coil drivers, closed loop awesome interpolation between cells, cold starts, warm starts, idle and a/c idle all perfectly.

Running my rb30 prior to the tune was returning around 420-430km's per tank fo juice, after the tune it picked up around 50km's so damn close to 500km's per tank all on local 60km/h roads.

Show me an aftermarket ecu that is able to offer 6 inj. outputs, 6 coil drivers, at least 20x20 table with awesome interpolation, and closed loop mode WITH hand controller for 1k.

And the best thing.. Drop in and drive to the tuner, if your really tight ask him to throw it on the dyno for 1hr and do a wot tune only ($110 odd), the base map works well and will return reasonable fuel economy.

But once again, it really depends on what your tuners are comfortable with. If they deal with a lot of skylines they will know the powerfc like the back of their hand.

I am not so sure about other states but here in Adelaide we have an awesome selection of tuning work shops. From Willall Racing (I'm sure your familiar with Keir Wilson), Tilbrooks, Morpowa, Boostworxs, Graham West, RPM all of which are able to throw the laptop on the pfc.

No doubt its the same in the larger states. :D

A blind man could tune the PFC... :D

Unless your making more than 2-3x the power all tuning can be done via the hand controller, no laptop software is required.

Here in Adelaide there are 6 tuners that have or have access to the datalogit software should they be required to extend the map reference or tweak the airflow curve due to unstreetable rwd power levels.

Microtech have been saying they are developing a closed loop system for the last couple of years that I know of.

The PFC runs the car damn well, 6 injector outputs, 6 coil drivers, closed loop awesome interpolation between cells, cold starts, warm starts, idle and a/c idle all perfectly.

Running my rb30 prior to the tune was returning around 420-430km's per tank fo juice, after the tune it picked up around 50km's so damn close to 500km's per tank all on local 60km/h roads.

Show me an aftermarket ecu that is able to offer 6 inj. outputs, 6 coil drivers, at least 20x20 table with awesome interpolation, and closed loop mode WITH hand controller for 1k.

And the best thing.. Drop in and drive to the tuner, if your really tight ask him to throw it on the dyno for 1hr and do a wot tune only ($110 odd), the base map works well and will return reasonable fuel economy.

But once again, it really depends on what your tuners are comfortable with. If they deal with a lot of skylines they will know the powerfc like the back of their hand.

I am not so sure about other states but here in Adelaide we have an awesome selection of tuning work shops. From Willall Racing (I'm sure your familiar with Keir Wilson), Tilbrooks, Morpowa, Boostworxs, Graham West, RPM all of which are able to throw the laptop on the pfc.

No doubt its the same in the larger states. :D

in qld we only have 1 that i know of

in not knockin pfc there value for money but when u do rb conversion in to silvias(which i do) the pfc is no good as every sensor has to be hooked up for the ecu to work propley with out goin to to limp mode rb20 r ok but rb25 forget it the cost to hook a 25 up right out wights the cost of getting a haltech etc

and a pfc brand new cost more than 1g retail with hand controller if a pfc can be had brand new for a ca18det ;) for under 1g with hand controller ill take 50 plz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...